In a dramatic shake-up for the Italian luxury fashion world, Versace has announced the departure of its creative director, Dario Vitale, less than nine months after he assumed the role. The exit comes just two days after rival fashion house Prada finalised its blockbuster acquisition of Versace.
A Short-Lived Tenure at the Helm
Dario Vitale's time at the iconic fashion label was remarkably brief, spanning just a single season. He had taken over the creative reins from Donatella Versace in March of this year, marking the first time someone from outside the Versace family had held the top creative position. The brand confirmed that Vitale and Versace "have mutually agreed to part ways effective from 12 December."
In a statement provided to Vogue Business, Versace expressed gratitude for Vitale's contribution during a transitional period, stating: "We would like to sincerely thank Dario for his outstanding contribution to the development of the brand’s creative strategy during this transition period, and we wish him all the very best in his future endeavors." Prada, the new owner, has stated it will announce a replacement "in due course."
The Prada Takeover and Strategic Shifts
Vitale's departure follows closely on the heels of Prada's completion of a $1.38 billion (£1.04bn) purchase of Versace from US group Capri Holdings. The deal, which involved over half a year of negotiations, was finalised very recently. Industry analysts suggest the move was inevitable, as Vitale was a hire from the previous Capri regime and may not have aligned with Prada's vision for the brand's future.
Reports from The Business of Fashion indicate that Prada's leadership, including CEO Andrea Guerra, had reservations. "Prada’s leadership seemed unconvinced that he could jump from a behind-the-scenes role to a highly visible creative directorship, or that his taste was a match," the publication noted. This adds a layer of irony, as Vitale had only left his role at Prada's own hit brand, Miu Miu, earlier this year to join Versace.
Performance and the Search for a Successor
The fashion houses involved are on divergent trajectories. While Miu Miu has become the world's hottest brand according to the Lyst Index and saw sales surge 41%, both the main Prada label and Versace have faced challenges. Versace reported a 15% drop in sales to $193 million in the last quarter of 2024.
Vitale's sole show for Spring/Summer 2026 received mixed reviews, with some praising its 80s-inspired clubwear and others finding it chaotic. The influential Instagram account @boringnotcom reacted to his exit with a post simply reading "I told you so." Donatella Versace, who stepped down in March after 27 years, did not attend his show.
For now, Versace's creative team will report to CEO Emmanuel Gintzburger. The hunt for a new creative director begins in a market with several high-profile free agents. Names in the frame include Olivier Rousteing, recently departed from Balmain, and Kim Jones, who has left Fendi and Dior, the latter having previously collaborated with Versace on the 'Fendace' project.
This acquisition and subsequent leadership change mark a significant power play by Prada. The move is widely seen as an attempt to build a luxury fashion conglomerate capable of rivalling French giants LVMH and Kering, reshaping the competitive landscape of high fashion.
