Fashion World Gathers in Rome to Honour Valentino Garavani
The funeral of legendary fashion designer Valentino Garavani took place in Rome on Friday, bringing together prominent figures from the fashion industry and entertainment world to pay their respects. The service, held at the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs, saw celebrities including actor Anne Hathaway and fashion icons Anna Wintour, Donatella Versace, and Tom Ford dressed in traditional mourning black.
A Splash of Colour Amidst the Mourning
While most attendees adhered to funeral convention with dark attire, Damian Hurley, son of actor Elizabeth Hurley, made a distinctive fashion statement by accessorising with a bright red scarf. This subtle nod to Valentino's signature colour palette stood out against the sea of black, serving as a visual tribute to the designer's most famous contribution to fashion.
Donatella Versace had previously paid homage to her fellow designer when visiting him as he lay in state on Thursday, wearing a striking bright red suit that directly referenced Valentino's most celebrated colour. These personal tributes highlighted how deeply Valentino's aesthetic had influenced his peers and the wider fashion community.
The Enduring Legacy of Valentino Red
Valentino Garavani first introduced his now-iconic red dress in his debut 1959 collection with a design called Fiesta - a strapless gown decorated with roses across a full skirt. The designer famously drew inspiration from witnessing an older woman wearing red at the opera, noting how dramatically she stood out from the crowd.
Alistair O'Neill, curator of Somerset House's 2012 Valentino: Master of Couture exhibition, explains that this initial impact encouraged the designer to continue using the colour throughout his career. "The particular shade - scarlet with a hint of blue - was absolutely key," says O'Neill. "It's a tone that works across a range of skin colours and makes nearly all women look great because it's a very pure, clean colour with real luminosity."
A Colour Born Before Pantone Systems
Fashion writer Charlie Porter, who worked on the 2022 coffee table book Valentino Rosso, emphasises the historical significance of Valentino developing his signature shade before Pantone began systemising colours in the early 1960s. "Valentino's red possesses real sensitivity, depth, and human feeling because it predates our current mechanical approach to colour selection," Porter observes.
He further notes the geographical influence on the colour's development: "Italy - and Rome specifically - were central to creating this shade. The way sunlight interacts with different locations affects how we perceive colour, something we rarely consider in our modern, globalised world."
Vogue Italia's Tribute and Colour Matching
In honour of the designer, Vogue Italia's February issue features a cover created in Valentino red. Francesca Ragazzi, the publication's head of content, explains that her team collaborated with Valentino's foundation to identify the Pantone shade closest to the designer's original colour, eventually selecting 2347C for its vibrancy and ability to "best express a sense of light."
Ragazzi reflects on the designer's enduring influence: "Legacy means leaving something to the world, and it's extraordinary that Valentino managed to leave a colour as a universal language - one that will remain forever in the global imagination."
The Cultural Significance of Red Throughout History
Kassia St Clair, author of The Secret Lives of Colour, contextualises red's historical importance in fashion. "Originally created using expensive dyes, red clothing has long symbolised luxury, worn by royalty, military leaders, and high-ranking clergy," she explains. "The colour has consistently communicated power, wealth, and status throughout human history."
St Clair also notes the complex relationship between cultural conditioning and biological response: "While it's difficult to separate natural human reactions from learned associations, testing suggests red may have a unique psychological impact on us."
Contemporary Relevance and Future Associations
Despite the current focus on Valentino's red legacy, Porter suggests that future generations might associate the designer with different creations. "In the public imagination today, many people connect Valentino with the 2010 Rockstud shoes rather than his colour work," he remarks, referencing recent discussions about their potential appearance in The Devil Wears Prada sequel.
St Clair similarly questions whether Valentino's passing will significantly increase red's popularity, arguing that "red transcends any single designer or era. While Valentino holds a specific, important place in fashion history, this colour's significance extends far beyond his contributions."
Nevertheless, as fashion luminaries gathered in Rome to bid farewell to one of their most influential members, the presence of Valentino red in various forms served as a powerful reminder of how a single designer's vision can permanently colour our visual landscape.
