The fashion world is mourning the loss of Paul Costelloe, the celebrated Irish designer whose elegant linen creations became a staple in the wardrobe of Diana, Princess of Wales. Costelloe, whose label remained profitable for an impressive 47 years, has died at the age of 80.
From Dublin to the World: A Career Rooted in Irish Linen
Born in Dublin on 23 June 1945, Costelloe's career was international in scope but deeply connected to his Irish heritage. After studying in Paris and working in Milan and New York, he returned to Ireland in 1978 to launch his label with backing from Northern Irish manufacturer Strelitz Ltd and its Moygashel linen brand. He championed natural fibres, particularly linen woven in Northern Ireland, long before it became a global fashion staple.
His practical yet sophisticated approach to daywear quickly found favour. A pivotal moment came in 1983 when a member of the Princess of Wales's staff discovered his boutique in Windsor. Summoned to Kensington Palace, Costelloe convinced Diana that linen dresses were ideal for her working wardrobe. She wore his designs globally, and he dressed her until her death in 1997.
A Fixture of Fashion and a National Asset
Costelloe became a fixture at London Fashion Week from 1984, showing collections for four decades. His final show closed the inaugural Irish fashion week in Dublin in October 2025. Beyond womenswear, his skill in tailoring led to significant commissions, including uniforms for the 2004 Irish Olympic team, Aer Lingus, and British Airways air crew in 1993.
He often noted that he never attained the investment levels of peers like Giorgio Armani, instead building a durable family firm through direct collaborations, such as a successful line with Ireland's Dunnes Stores. This made him a familiar and beloved figure, often greeted in the street by Irishmen wearing his jumpers.
A Legacy of Family and Enduring Style
Costelloe is survived by his wife, Anne, whom he met in 1979 and married after spotting her wearing one of his skirts, and their seven children. He maintained homes and studios in both Dublin and London, cycling between his Putney house and central London design studio into his later years.
Paul Costelloe's journey mirrored modern Ireland's own, from relative isolation to prosperous European nation. His legacy is one of enduring quality, intelligent design, and a profound connection to the textiles of his homeland, dressing a princess and a nation with equal flair.
