The British fashion world is mourning the loss of Pam Hogg, the radical designer who brought the explosive energy of the 1980s London club scene to the catwalk. Known for her iconic looks and for dressing music legends like Rihanna and Kylie Minogue, Hogg's death was announced by her family, who celebrated her magnificent and unconventional legacy.
From Glasgow Art School to London's Blitz Club
Born in Paisley, near Glasgow, Hogg's creative journey began early; she started making her own clothes at just six years old. Her formal training started at the Glasgow School of Art, where she focused on painting and printed textiles, before she moved to London to study at the prestigious Royal College of Art.
It was in the capital that her design career truly ignited. As a fixture of the vibrant club scene, she began crafting attention-grabbing outfits primarily to guarantee entry into Steve Strange’s legendary Blitz club. This DIY, punk-inspired approach quickly evolved, and she presented her first official catwalk collection in 1981.
Her innovative style soon earned critical acclaim. By 1989, the influential i-D magazine hailed her as "the most consistently inventive British fashion designer (alongside Vivienne Westwood)". The publication also famously described her as a "100% party girl", a title embodied by the bold women who wore her designs, including Debbie Harry, Paula Yates, and Siouxsie Sioux.
The Rock 'n' Roll Spirit: Music and a Fashion Return
Hogg was a personality in her own right, instantly recognisable by her shock of blond hair, sharp quiff, red lipstick, and dramatic winged eyeliner. This rock and roll attitude seamlessly translated into a music career when, in the 1990s, she temporarily swapped the catwalk for the stage.
As the lead singer of the band Doll, she opened for acts like Blondie and The Raincoats, continuing to design extrovert costumes for her performances. Her connection to fashion's A-list remained strong. She once recalled in an interview how Kate Moss, at her Bowie-themed birthday party, immediately tore off her couture dress to put on a Ziggy Stardust-inspired outfit Hogg had made.
Hogg made a triumphant return to fashion in the 2000s, creating striking outfits for a new generation of pop icons including Rihanna, Björk, and Kylie Minogue. She returned to London Fashion Week in 2009, showcasing her signature tight, brightly coloured catsuits. Remarkably, she continued to sew every single catwalk piece herself, crafting each one to fit her own frame before adjusting it for models.
A Lasting Legacy of Defiance and Creativity
Pam Hogg never lost her passion for nightlife or her distinctive style, which evolved to include lemon-yellow hair, aviator sunglasses, and teddy boy jackets. She continued to show collections until very recently, with her work achieving cultural milestone status. A semi-sheer wedding dress she designed for Lady Mary Charteris in 2012 is now part of the permanent collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Her final collection in 2024, titled Of Gods and Monsters, was created from recycled fabrics and studio finds. It was a politically charged statement, focusing on environmental issues and the genocide in Gaza. "It's an unfair and imbalanced world," she stated. "There is no time like the present to correct this ... please use your voice."
This activism was consistent with a woman who fiercely resisted being labelled "normal". As she told The Guardian, "I'm just glad not to be termed normal. Fuck normality!" This defiant, creative spirit is what she will be most remembered for, a true original who inspired countless people to live beyond the confines of convention.
