The Unexpected Return of a British Classic
The duffel coat, a garment long associated with a beloved fictional bear from Peru, is suddenly looking very grown-up. This winter, the classic coat with its distinctive toggles is experiencing a remarkable fashion renaissance, moving from the playground to the forefront of style.
High-profile appearances are fuelling this trend. In the new Waitrose Christmas advertisement, a mini romantic-comedy starring Keira Knightley, comedian Joe Wilkinson is seen sporting a duffel coat. Meanwhile, footballer Cole Palmer featured one in Burberry's 2024 campaign, and musician Tyler, the Creator wore a shorter version in his recent music video for 'Darling, I'. Of course, Paddington Bear continues to represent in his signature blue version on the West End stage.
High Street Demand and Historical Roots
This renewed interest is translating directly into sales. John Lewis reports that sales of duffel coats have surged by 75% compared to last month. Furthermore, searches for the item on the resale app Depop have skyrocketed by 159% over the last four months. The high street is responding with offerings ranging from a £64 checked design at Marks & Spencer to a premium £279 cream coat from Labrum's collection for John Lewis.
Despite its quintessentially British image, the coat's name hails from Duffel, a town in Belgium known for its thick cloth. The design itself may have roots in Polish frock coats before being popularised by the British Royal Navy. It became a symbol of heroism in the second world war, worn by Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery, who became so linked to the coat it earned the nickname 'the Monty'.
Andrew Groves, director of the menswear archive at the University of Westminster, notes this revival is part of a broader shift in menswear. He states, "Menswear is shifting back to garments with clear origins and unambiguous functionality. [It] offers weight, insulation and a straightforwardness, which is what a lot of men want right now." A Depop spokesperson confirmed this, linking the trend to a growing interest in 'heritage fashion'.
A Divisive Garment with Enduring Appeal
Not everyone is convinced by the duffel's grown-up return. Teo van den Broeke, editor-in-chief of Esquire, is a notable critic. "There’s something really infantilising about them," he says. "I really don’t like seeing a grown adult in a duffel coat. I find it incredibly unsexy."
However, he concedes that its appeal lies in its functionality, heritage, and military background—qualities that often resonate with men. The coat has long been a favourite of rock stars, including Liam Gallagher and Alex Turner, who van den Broeke believes 'subvert' its practicality with their attitude.
Despite the debate, experts agree the duffel coat is a permanent fixture in fashion history. "It’s a classic because you can’t really reinvent it," argues Andrew Groves. "Whatever designers do to it, from Burberry to Prada, a duffel remains a duffel." Its current moment in the spotlight proves that some styles are simply built to last, cycling back into fashion with timeless reliability.
