Andy Burnham's Political Fashion: Decoding the 'King of the North' Style
In a striking departure from the traditional Westminster uniform of suits and ties, Greater Manchester Mayor Andy Burnham has cultivated a distinctive sartorial identity that speaks volumes about his political positioning. His preference for understated, all-black ensembles—featuring bomber jackets, V-neck jumpers, and dark denim—is far from accidental; it represents a calculated statement aimed at distancing himself from the polished corridors of power in London.
The Symbolism of Casual Black
Burnham's style, often described as "Left Bank intellectual-adjacent black-on-black," emerged prominently after Labour blocked his return as an MP. At events like the launch of a Class Ceiling report at Manchester's Whitworth Gallery, he appeared in a simple black V-neck jumper and jeans, embodying what observers call "quietly, subtly, the outsider." This look, while seemingly unremarkable, is loaded with meaning. According to Andrew Groves, a professor of fashion design and director of the Westminster Menswear Archive, Burnham's all-black workwear aesthetic is as deliberate as any Westminster suit, but it targets a different audience. Groves notes that it "rejects parliamentary polish and signals Mancunian proximity: practical, ordinary, and deliberately outside London political dress codes."
Fashion as Political Expression
Jonathan Tonge, a professor of politics at the University of Liverpool, argues that Burnham's fashion choices align closely with his political stance: mildly "left of centre, moderately radical, nonconformist." As the first metro mayor of Greater Manchester, Burnham has the unique ability to chisel out his role and set his own fashion rules, rejecting old conventions in favour of a smart-casual approach that reflects his identity. Tonge explains that Burnham's style communicates a clear message: "I'm Andy Burnham, I'm different from Westminster, and my fashions are different from Westminster." This aesthetic is inspired more by Mancunian musical icons like The Smiths and Britpop than by political figures, further emphasising his regional roots.
Contrasts and Comparisons in Labour Style
Burnham's fashion sense also draws intriguing parallels with Labour leader Keir Starmer, who occasionally adopts casual elements such as dark shirts or Harrington jackets. However, Tonge points out that Starmer's style does not reach the same level of non-conformity as Burnham's. While Starmer might wear an open-neck shirt or trainers at party events, Burnham's consistent embrace of workwear and all-black outfits sets him apart as a more radical figure. This distinction underscores Burnham's role as a "thorn in the side of the Labour government in Westminster," leveraging his style to reinforce his outsider status.
Evolution and Future Implications
Burnham's current style marks a significant evolution from his Westminster days, when he occasionally wore Armani suits—a choice that sparked controversy in 2015. In a 2022 interview with the Guardian, he reflected on this shift, stating: "I remember, when I left, slowly realising: 'I don't have to do this any more ... it was an evolution and I'm not going back.'" This raises an interesting question: if Burnham ever returns to Westminster, will his fashion sense revert to more traditional norms, or will he maintain his Mancunian-inspired look as a symbol of enduring change? For now, his style remains a powerful tool in crafting a political narrative that prioritises authenticity and regional identity over conformity.
