Grand Bassam, a city in Côte d'Ivoire situated between the Ébrié lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean, is experiencing a renaissance as artists priced out of Abidjan seek affordable alternatives. The city, once the country's first capital and a Unesco world heritage site since 2012, now hosts a growing community of creatives who are breathing new life into its colonial architecture and scenic beaches.
Artists flock to Grand Bassam for affordability and inspiration
Nuits Balnéaires, an Ivorian visual artist whose name translates to 'coastal nights,' moved permanently to Grand Bassam in July 2019 from his family home in Abidjan. He describes the ocean's energy as poetic and essential to his work. 'The natural elements are the very essence and foundation of my artistic practice,' he said.
The cost of living crisis in Abidjan has driven many artists to relocate. According to Abidjan-based art collector Ozong Agborsangaya-Fiteu, 'It is increasingly difficult for many artists to maintain studio spaces in the city. As a result, they are seeking more affordable alternatives in places such as Grand Bassam, Bingerville, and increasingly even farther afield in Dabou and Jacqueville.' He notes that Grand Bassam itself is becoming more expensive, pushing some artists further out.
Renaissance after a tragic attack
Grand Bassam lost its appeal as Abidjan grew more cosmopolitan, and a jihadist attack in 2016 that left 19 dead further damaged its reputation. However, evidence of its renaissance is now abundant. In the last decade, the city has become a preferred destination for artists seeking calm and inspiration.
Elladj Lincy Deloumeaux, a Guadeloupe-born artist, moved from Paris to Abidjan five years ago and then to Grand Bassam two years ago. He describes it as 'a very calm and soothing place that's conducive to working and finding inspiration.'
New cultural spaces emerge
Last year, the former colonial customs and post office building reopened as La Maison de l'Art, a contemporary art museum with a sculpture garden and cafe. At the launch, culture minister Françoise Remarck said the collaboration between private and public sectors was a 'fresh breath of life' to the old city. 'Today, we are doing much more than opening the doors of a space dedicated to art,' she said. 'We are taking an act of recognition and appreciation of African artistic genius.'
La Fourchette de Rōze, a boutique hotel, launched an artist-in-residence programme in January 2023, hosting over two dozen artists and musicians from around the world, including Nuits Balnéaires. La Cocoteraie des Arts, a creative space in Mondoukou, also offers artist residences.
New studios and a growing art scene
Dozens of new studios are appearing across Grand Bassam. Ivorian-French photographer Aïcha Fall plans to add another later this year. She moved to Grand Bassam in 2023 from Paris, despite an attachment to Abidjan. 'Bassam represents all of that. It offers you time for reverie, unlike Abidjan, which is always effervescent,' she said.
Some predict Grand Bassam could eventually rival Abidjan as an art haven. However, most galleries, institutions, collectors, and patrons remain in Abidjan. Festivals like Abidjan art week still attract continental audiences.
A dynamic shift rather than a weakening
Agborsangaya-Fiteu sees the geographical shift as creating a new dynamic rather than weakening the scene. 'Artists benefit from more affordable and inspiring places to work while remaining close enough to the city to participate in exhibitions, openings, and other cultural activities whenever needed.'
Nuits Balnéaires agrees, noting that in Grand Bassam, 'you can feel very disconnected, yet at the same time, you're not that far removed from what's happening in Abidjan.'
