A new crop of fig fragrances is emerging, offering superior tones that cut through the sugary, cheaper efforts that have been pervasive recently. After a lengthy sabbatical, beauty writer Sali Hughes is ready to let fig scents back into her life.
The Rise and Fall of Fig Scents
Hughes recalls years when she couldn't get enough of lush, green Philosykos by Diptyque, a fragrance she calls a "bona fide masterpiece" and "the greatest of all fig scents." However, a million sugary, inferior dupes sullied the category, cynically transporting it from the fruit groves of Turkey to the air freshener aisle at Halfords. With familiarity grew contempt, but a new crop of figs is emerging to restore the reputation.
Tom Ford's Bold Figue Erotique
Tom Ford's recent Figue Erotique, priced at £188 for 30ml, takes fig at various stages of its life cycle—sharp, nutty, green and unripe; rich, juicy, warm and sun-drenched; and finally sugary, creamy and ready to burst—and isolates each in its own accord. Bigger and bolder than most figs, with a sultry, musky sexiness that reads almost as humid, it may not be your most worn in a heatwave. For that, Hughes recommends Chloé's vivid, sparkling fig, Plage du Figuier (£115 for 50ml). But Figue Erotique is a glorious scent for all seasons.
Prada's Infusion de Figue: A Patient Pleasure
If the price of Tom Ford's offering seems egregious or the scent too punchy, Hughes suggests Prada's Infusion de Figue (£152 for 100ml). She admits she didn't love it at first but calls it "the just-poured Guinness of fragrances—you're going to have to wait to get the best of it." The fragrance deals with unripened figs—woody, sappy and fresh. The sweetness is gentle; a touch of mandarin zest cuts through the jam. It's decent on first spray and delightful an hour later. And worth the spend, since 100ml contains the equivalent of two or three regular bottles of perfume.
Roger&Gallet's Affordable Option
Roger&Gallet's fig is not as rich as Tom Ford's, and is sweeter than Prada's, but the price makes it a must-sniff for those fig-curious. Fleur de Figuier (£21 for 30ml) is pulpy, bright and cheerful, with stacks of vibrant citrus fruits. The green notes keep things grownup and the cumin ("sweaty" in so many fragrances) appears here as warm, woody and earthy, without weighing down what is an olfactory tonic. Hughes describes it as "fig as a Starburst sweet."
Philosykos Still Unbeaten
Despite the new offerings, Hughes still believes Philosykos (£102 for 50ml in the eau de toilette incarnation) cannot be beaten. She calls it a perfect fragrance and the reference point for all other figs. "And she's ripe for a comeback," Hughes concludes.
