Brunello: The Gracious Visionary review – fawning portrait of the king of cashmere
Brunello: The Gracious Visionary review – cashmere king's vanity film

Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian fashion designer and entrepreneur who built a billion-dollar empire, is the subject of a new documentary directed by Oscar-winning filmmaker Giuseppe Tornatore. The film, titled Brunello: The Gracious Visionary, is a two-hour-long vanity project commissioned by Cucinelli himself, as noted in a review.

A life story steeped in sentimentalism

Cucinelli was born into a poor, hard-working farming family, depicted in reconstructed scenes with sugary sentimentalism as a time of simple, innocent pleasures. As a boy, he is portrayed as a cheeky lad who grows into a teenager more interested in playing cards at the local bar than studying. His attempts to set the town's prostitute on the right path are included to highlight his moral compass, according to the review.

From brainwave to billion-dollar brand

After meeting his future wife, Cucinelli knuckles down, does some modelling, and has the brainwave to produce cashmere jumpers for the women's market in eye-popping colours, previously only made in boring grey and beige. Today, his brand is synonymous with understated luxury, with jumpers costing up to £2,500.

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A hybrid of documentary and drama

The film blends documentary and drama, and in interviews, Cucinelli comes across as a good guy billionaire. He is charming and prides himself on being a good employer, inspired by the poor conditions in the factory where his father worked after the family moved to the city for a better life. He has also invested heavily to save medieval buildings in the town where his business is based from disrepair and collapse.

Overdone sycophancy and exceptionalism

However, the review notes that the film overdoes the sycophancy and exceptionalism. At one point, archive footage shows Cucinelli in his 20s appearing in an Easter Passion play, playing Jesus Christ. The review concludes that the film feels less like a cinema piece than a lavish in-house promo for new staff, a mandatory induction-day viewing, and questions its necessity for the general public.

Brunello: The Gracious Visionary is in UK and Irish cinemas from 24 July.

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