Bar Leone: When Global Acclaim Meets Local Disappointment
Hong Kong boasts a unique claim to fame in the cocktail world: it is home to the bar that currently holds the coveted number one spot on the prestigious World's 50 Best Bars list. During a visit in October, I seized the opportunity to experience Bar Leone for myself. Despite the international buzz and critical acclaim, my experience left me feeling distinctly underwhelmed and questioning the very metrics of such global rankings.
A Concept Rich in Nostalgia, Poor in Execution
Opened in June 2023, Bar Leone is the creation of multi-award-winning Italian bartender Lorenzo Antinori. The concept leans heavily on nostalgia, drawing inspiration from early '90s cinema and sports culture, all wrapped within a colonial-style interior designed to mimic the casual charm of a Roman street bar. In theory, this sounds wonderfully transportive. In practice, the execution felt restrained to the point of blandness. The space, unassuming and dimly lit at street level, lacks the visual drama or distinctive personality one might anticipate from a venue crowned 'the best in the world'. Inside, the room feels tight and crowded, with small, wobbly tables and minimal separation between guests, creating a cramped, functional atmosphere rather than a buzzing, convivial one.
The Gruelling Wait and Service Shortfalls
Gaining entry to Bar Leone is an exercise in patience. Upon arrival, a hostess takes your number and places you on a sporadically updating digital waitlist. I am told five-hour waits are not uncommon; my own journey from position 57 to the top three took two and a half hours. The scene outside underscored the absurdity: a drunk man in a dishevelled suit, wielding a bamboo stick, charged the entrance only to be told he must rejoin the digital queue. This spectacle highlights a critical question: are patrons enduring these waits for genuine love of the bar, or simply for the prestige attached to its title?
Once inside, service, while polite, felt stretched. Water glasses went unrefilled, and attention was minimal. Perhaps most surprisingly for Hong Kong's vibrant nightlife, last orders were called at 11:30pm—unusually early for a city where bars in districts like Lan Kwai Fong and Soho commonly operate until 2am or later. For a globally lauded bar, this early closure feels like a significant missed opportunity and a failure to meet local expectations.
Exceptional Drinks Amidst a Flawed Experience
It is crucial to note that the cocktails themselves were genuinely excellent. My olive oil sour was rich, balanced, and memorable—the kind of drink that commands full attention. I did not get to sample the food due to the tight seating window before closing, but social media has relentlessly promoted a viral mortadella sandwich that appears decadent. However, a number one bar should deliver consistency, comfort, and hospitality alongside innovation, not just one exceptional cocktail before ushering guests out the door.
Questioning the 'World's Best' Title
The World's 50 Best Bars list is often described as the Oscars of cocktail culture. Judged by hundreds of anonymous industry professionals worldwide on broad criteria like creativity and experience, the process is famously opaque. While prestigious, it inevitably reflects prevailing trends, which can amplify hype as much as quality. Standing in Bar Leone's crowded entryway, I couldn't help but question its title. The overall experience simply did not live up to the monumental promise.
The Verdict: Not Worth the Hype
So, is Bar Leone worth the visit? In my opinion, no. I understand the draw: the pedigree of Lorenzo Antinori, the outstanding drinks, the allure of exclusivity. But the protracted waitlist alone is a major deterrent, especially when Hong Kong is brimming with alternative bars that offer equally inventive cocktails within a more generous and enjoyable atmosphere. Establishments like Muis or Peridot, for instance, impressed me far more by delivering warm service and stimulating spaces where you genuinely want to linger. Perhaps the greatest lesson from Bar Leone is that being seen as 'the best' can, paradoxically, undermine the very experience it promises to deliver.
