A Journey into Silence and Self-Discovery in West Sweden
Total silence envelops me as I sit among a group of women, all of us maintaining a profound muteness that has lasted nearly two hours. There's no eye contact, no gestures—just pure stillness. I find myself wondering about their inner worlds: are their thoughts as loud as mine, or have they achieved a quiet harmony within themselves? This is my reality during a 'Day in Silence' at Tofta Retreat in West Sweden, where I'm sipping tea after a yoga session with instructor Suzanne.
The Power of Silent Connection
The entire day at Tofta Retreat weaves together stretching, mindfulness, and meditation—all observed in complete silence, even during breaks—to deepen the contemplative experience. Normally, I'd feel compelled to make small talk with fellow participants, but I discover an unexpected liberation in releasing that social pressure. Instead of connecting with others, the silence creates precious space to connect with myself.
We rarely pause to ask ourselves what we truly want or what brings us genuine happiness, yet we often demand these answers from loved ones as naturally as we expect the sun to rise. Since arriving at the retreat, these questions have been quietly circulating in my mind. For now, I'm simply enjoying the peace and tranquility: moving my body to Suzanne's gentle yoga guidance and relishing freedom from constant digital and social stimulation.
Forest Bathing and Mindful Presence
It's little wonder that silent retreats are growing in popularity worldwide. Silence and stillness offer remarkable clarity about our lives, values, and sense of purpose. Sweden provides an ideal setting for such experiences—one of Europe's most sparsely populated countries with 69% forest cover and only 3% of its land inhabited.
We confront this expansiveness during an hour-long forest bathing session. Suzanne encourages us to stay mindful and present as we walk. "Look around you," she urges. "Notice what you see. Listen to the sounds of nature—not your inner voice." Initially challenging, with each step I gradually succeed in quieting my thoughts. Whenever my mind wanders, I gently remind myself to return to the present moment.
Maintaining silence proves particularly difficult when I feel rude for not thanking someone who holds a gate open, or when I must stop myself from pointing out an interesting plant to another walker. Back at the retreat, learning to eat in silence becomes a genuine treat. Homemade pumpkin soup, warm bread thick with butter, followed by energy balls—enjoyed without distraction—provides deep satisfaction as I fully immerse myself in this basic human need.
Off-Grid Living at Swedish Country Living
Following my silent retreat experience, I venture deeper into Dalsland's striking natural landscape, often described as "Sweden in miniature." This province in West Sweden borders Norway to the west and Lake Vänern to the east. Here I discover Swedish Country Living, run by husband-and-wife duo David and Marie Naraine, considered one of the region's most environmentally friendly accommodations.
I've committed to staying in one of their Hermitage concept cottages—completely off-grid without electricity or running water. The estate and its three cottages hum with thoughtful creativity and deep commitment to sustainability. As David and Marie show me around the cottages and farm complete with a small abattoir and shop, he explains how everything interconnects, from the design ethos to the grazing animals that help preserve biodiversity.
Their path to this life was unconventional: both worked in fashion before buying a turn-of-the-century villa outside Köpmannebro as a summer retreat. They soon realized they wanted to make it their permanent home and share its beauty with others. "We registered the Swedish Country Living name before we really knew what it would become," David reveals. "Since then, we've learned as we've gone—from clearing forests to caring for our animals."
Sustainable Design and Circular Systems
Wandering through the architect-designed cottages, I'm instantly impressed by the sustainable approach. David and Marie have sourced recycled materials from their own forest, farm, and neighbourhood. A solid wooden door dates to the 1700s, while one cottage roof consists of 4,000 slates—each painstakingly hammered in place over six demanding weeks, representing a true labour of love.
The recycling centre represents the estate's newest addition. At the front sits the orangery where breakfast and dinner are served; at the back are individual bathrooms for each cottage with floors and walls crafted from wattle and daub. Waste from toilets is composted with nutrients returned to the soil. The building operates a circular water system: water drawn from the nearby lake, while grey water is filtered and purified by plants in the greenhouse.
Food on the estate is produced locally through in-house regenerative agriculture. The organic, certified lamb stew I enjoy, accompanied by fresh vegetables, tastes divine. Satiated, I return to my rustic Hermitage cottage featuring a glowing fireplace, simple table and chairs, and a large bed within a cocoon of Scandinavian country charm. Sheepskin rugs soften the space while books on the shelf above a reclining chair offer simple creature comforts—understated yet stylish, perfectly suited to solitude and reflection.
Coastal Exploration and Kayoga Discovery
Dalsland's accessibility makes it ideal for outdoor pursuits including canoeing, boating, and cycling. Guests staying at Swedish Country Living can use on-site canoes to paddle to nearby islands. Sweden is home to several archipelagos and more than 267,000 islands—the most of any country worldwide.
To experience this coastal beauty, I reluctantly leave my sanctuary and head to Grebbestad to meet Ingela and Marcus of Skärgårdsidyllen for a pre-booked kayoga session. Like David and Marie, this couple left hectic city life in Gothenburg to live and work closer to the ocean. They offer various outdoor experiences, but kayoga particularly draws me in.
Gliding away in my single kayak alongside Ingela, I learn about Sweden's rugged coastline. Grebbestad supplies up to 90% of the country's oysters—though they're not on the menu when we stop at a small island for yoga. Instead, I enjoy traditional Swedish fika: coffee and a bun. With a satisfied belly, certified yoga teacher Ingela guides me through a short session designed to release stiffness from kayaking. We twist and lengthen tired muscles against the breathtaking coastal backdrop.
The Lasting Impact of Silence and Nature
There's no doubt that silent retreats offer valuable space for introspection, deep mental rest, heightened self-awareness, and renewed focus. Sweden provides an exceptional setting for such experiences. Even medical professionals recognize the benefits: Sweden recently became the first country worldwide to officially prescribe nature to improve wellbeing—a doctor's order I'm more than happy to follow.
As my silent day concludes with yin yoga and closing meditation, I feel genuinely sad it's ending. Though only twenty-four hours, I experience a deep pull toward a simpler, calmer, quieter life. I vow to create more space for pockets of silence beyond the retreat. The opportunity arrives sooner than expected during my off-grid stay, where I wake before dawn to the call of nature and venture to the recycling centre through the dark forest. The cold air on my face feels bewitching, everything silent—just like at the retreat—creating another pure moment of calm that will stay with me long after returning home.
