Croatia's second city, Split, offers an ideal shoulder season escape with £22 flights, 23°C temperatures, and no crowds. After 17 years of anticipation, a recent trip revealed a destination rich in history, culture, and natural beauty.
History in the 21st Century
Split, perched on the Adriatic Coast in the Dalmatia region, is home to the Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. This late 3rd-century Roman palace, later adapted into a medieval cathedral, served as Daenerys Targaryen's throne room in Game of Thrones. Unlike Pompeii, Split's core buzzes with modern life—bars, restaurants, and shops coexist with ancient ruins, making it a living museum.
Food and Drink Heaven
Dalmatian cuisine shines in Split, with Italian influences from 400 years of Venetian rule. Must-try dishes include Dalmatian prosciutto aged 36 months, Paški sir (sheep cheese), squid ink risotto, beef stew gnocchi, and Ćevapi (Balkan sausages). Local wines like Crljenak Kaštelansk—ancestor of Zinfandel—are a highlight. Dining at spots like Villa Spiza offers affordable, authentic meals; a dinner for two with wine costs around €25 (£21).
A Day Trip to Trogir
Just 35 minutes from Split, Trogir is a UNESCO-listed medieval town with a 2,300-year-old historic centre. Its Romanesque-Gothic architecture, 15th-century Venetian fortress (another Game of Thrones location), and walkable streets make it an open-air museum. Hiking trails lead to secret coves and harbours.
Gateway to the Split Archipelago
From Split's harbour, a £8 ferry ride reaches Brač, Dalmatia's largest island. Highlights include Pučišća town, Zlatni Rat beach (a shifting white-pebble spit), and Banj Beach. Further islands include Hvar (sunniest in Europe), historic Korčula, and quiet Šolta known for honey, olives, and wine.
How to Get There and Best Time to Go
Flights from Gatwick or Luton to Split with easyJet cost as little as £22, with a 2.5-hour journey. April temperatures average 23°C, ideal for exploring ancient sites and al fresco dining. Pack a light jacket for evenings.
