London's culinary landscape has welcomed an exciting new addition with the opening of Sartoria in the prestigious Kensington neighbourhood. The restaurant, launched by Evolv last week, occupies the historic Launceston Place location that was once a Sir Terence Conran masterpiece and a favourite dining spot of Princess Diana.
A New Chapter for London Dining
The team behind Sartoria has undertaken the significant responsibility of reimagining a venue with rich historical significance. The new establishment draws inspiration from Savile Row's distinctive style while incorporating Milanese flair, creating what promises to be an aspirational yet accessible dining experience on one of London's most beautiful streets.
Martin Williams of Evolv expressed his personal connection to the project, noting how the opportunity took him back to his first experiences of London's exceptional culinary scene during his adolescence. This theme of culinary nostalgia and innovation set the stage for this month's exploration of London's most notable restaurant openings and established favourites.
London's Restaurant Scene: Polarising Opinions and Culinary Excellence
The newly opened Rosewood Hotel, which occupies the former American Embassy building, has generated divided reactions among London's dining enthusiasts. Critics have described the venue as a downgrade from the original Rosewood location, home to the acclaimed Scarfes Bar, with some taking exception to its bold international design approach.
"You could be anywhere, it's a slap in the face to London," remarked one diner, though Williams noted his wife had a completely contrasting opinion, thoroughly enjoying her experience. The rooftop Eagle Bar presented its own challenges, with Williams declining an outdoor table that would have left his unprotected bald head exposed to direct rainfall.
Tobi Masa: Japanese Culinary Artistry
Far more welcoming was the experience at Tobi Masa, the restaurant of internationally acclaimed three-star chef Masayoshi 'Masa' Takayama. The establishment describes itself as "created by Japanese chefs, rather than a Japanese restaurant," and lives up to this distinction with exceptional small plates.
Standout dishes included a scallop ceviche with tomato water that evoked memories of 90s Nobu at its peak, and a duck taco layered with foie gras that Williams described as worthy of a visit to "Tobiville" alone. Other remarkable offerings included red prawns in a deep red curry sauce and octopus drenched in garlic butter with jalapenos over kale. The sushi selection throughout proved outstanding.
The signature crown melon dessert, while lovely, triggered unexpected memories of Williams' teenage years working as a supermarket shelf stacker, where he would arrange galia melons into perfect pyramids only to witness melon landslides when customers pulled them from the bottom.
Rosi: Mayfair's Reinvented Luxury
Under the guidance of what Williams considers possibly London's greatest hotelier, Stuart Procter, The Beaumont in Mayfair continues its mission to become one of the country's finest hotels. Procter, who previously managed The Stafford, has brought in chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen to head Rosi restaurant, with legendary executive chef Brendon Fyldes overseeing operations.
The dining room has been completely transformed from its previous incarnation as the smoky Colony Grill into a bright and sumptuously luxurious space. Trolleys navigate the packed dining room as experts serve the best smoked fish, tartars, and both savoury and sweet sliced pies.
The tableside sliced 'Old Fashioned' Pork pie evoked much more pleasant childhood memories than the melon experience at Tobi Masa, particularly when accompanied by homemade piccalilli and salad cream. However, the true star was the halibut, classically served in a white sauce with grapes, tarragon and cucumber - a dish Williams imagined his grandmother would have adored, and one he thoroughly enjoyed in its modern reinterpretation. The perfect lunch was completed with a bottle of Lime Bay, Martin's Lane Chardonnay priced at £86.
Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal: Culinary Perfection
A recommendation from fellow City AM judge James Robson of Fallow led Williams to Alex Dilling's eponymous venue at Café Royal on Regent Street. Launched in 2022, the restaurant has taken London by storm, with Dilling bringing a background working with Alain Ducasse and Hélène Darroze, along with the immense talent of head chef Pierre Minotti.
The experience included nine courses of divine delights, beginning with avocado and crab loaded with aged Kaluga caviar that set the tone for what followed. Barbecued lobster with a matelote sauce and pepper sabayon impressed, as did an innovative pigeon preparation served two ways, including a sublime sausage version.
Each course presented as a piece of culinary art, with the tasting menu priced at £215 per person proving excellent value. A bottle of Condrieu Les Chaillets, Yves Cuilleron at £150 complemented the experience perfectly. While the caviar and lobster didn't trigger specific childhood food memories, Williams noted he has "forever loved a sausage and egg sarnie" and could still taste that exceptional pigeon sausage.
The Future of London Dining
As London's restaurant scene continues to evolve with new openings like Sartoria in Kensington and established venues pushing culinary boundaries, diners have an increasingly sophisticated array of options. From the Japanese-inspired creations at Tobi Masa to the reinvented British classics at Rosi and the exquisite French-inspired tasting menus at Alex Dilling, London maintains its position as a global dining destination worthy of exploration.
