Soho is set to welcome what could be its most significant new dining destination of 2025. Moi, a sprawling restaurant on Wardour Street, is making a bold claim for the title with its unique concept: high-end Japanese cuisine made exclusively with premium British ingredients.
A Temple of Sushi and Woodsmoke
Stepping into Moi is an immersive experience. The space, described as a "foliage-heavy temple to sushi and woodsmoke," is vast, expanding as you venture deeper into its depths. The street-level dining room features an incredibly open kitchen where head chef Nick Tannett presides. Tannett, formerly the senior sous chef at the esteemed Endo at the Rotunda, prepares both modern and traditional sushi, skewers, tataki, and sashimi. The design is lush and atmospheric, creating a vibrant backdrop where the sounds of the Velvet Underground and jazz funk fill the air. For those looking to delve further, a sprawling basement houses a trendy 'listening bar'.
The Food: A Fusion of Japanese Technique and British Produce
The menu at Moi is where its ambitious philosophy truly comes to life, albeit with a price point that reflects its high-end aspirations. A small plate of seared A5 wagyu nigiri comes in at nearly £50, and bluefin toro taku temaki is similarly priced. Among the standout sushi offerings is a gooey sea trout tartare chu maki, elevated by a glossy, creamy yuzukosho emulsion.
However, it is the small plates where the restaurant truly finds its stride and offers slightly more accessible options. A dish of tuna tataki, with thick, fleshy mounds folded elegantly and resting in a zingy grapefruit liquor, is exceptional. The sauce is so moreish that diners might find themselves asking for a spoon.
The undeniable dish of the night, and also the best value, is the smoked cod’s roe for £12. This generous portion is cut through with a fiery house-made Lao Gan Ma chilli sauce and served with hot, fluffy, fried and steamed doughnut-style buns. This combination was hailed as "bread with main character energy." Another triumph is a fried potato cake topped with Devon crab, creating a delightful crispy rice-confit-potato hybrid.
Substantial Mains and the Overall Vibe
The main courses are substantial. An XXL scallop in a rich koji butter was fine, though it struggled to stand out after the stellar small plates. More memorable was a deep bowl of duck dumplings in a bone broth that glistened with wasabi duck fat, striking a perfect balance between wholesome comfort and indulgent richness.
The vibe at Moi is unapologetically big-ticket Soho scenester dining. To complement the food, the bar serves innovative cocktails like the 'Red Egg Plant' with apricot, gin, ash oil, and tomato consommé, alongside a serious sake selection and a lengthy wine list.
In conclusion, Moi is undoubtedly a great restaurant, but to experience it fully, one must be prepared to accept its Mayfair-style pricing. For those planning a visit, the smoked cod’s roe with fried buns is an essential order.
Address: 84 Wardour St, Soho, London, W1F 0TQ.
