In the heart of London's bustling Borough Market, a remarkable culinary gem has been crowned the city's top dining destination for 2025. Agora souvla bar, a relative newcomer that only opened in late March 2024, has achieved what many established restaurants can only dream of - being named London's number one restaurant by the prestigious Squaremeal magazine.
Finding London's Best Kept Secret
Located on Bedale Street, Agora's subtle branding means it doesn't immediately announce itself to passing crowds. The search for this acclaimed eatery can feel like a treasure hunt through the market's vibrant stalls. Look for Cafe Leon on the corner of Bedale Street and continue up the road until you spot Agora on your left-hand side, directly opposite the Globe Tavern.
Stepping inside reveals a sophisticated yet rustic space with dark wood tables and an earthy colour palette. The open kitchen provides a theatrical element, allowing diners to watch chefs expertly spit-roasting various meats while the fire's heat adds a primal quality to the atmosphere.
The Dining Experience: Bustling and Unpretentious
Agora captures the energetic spirit of Borough Market itself - it's a lively, jostling space filled with loud conversations and the enticing aroma of fiery cooking. The restaurant attracts a predominantly younger crowd in their 20s and 30s, with different groups happily sharing large tables.
The service lives up to its reputation for efficiency. Even without a reservation, the uber-efficient staff will work hard to find you a table. During my visit, a server scanned bookings like a military tactician before securing me a prime window seat. The friendly but busy atmosphere means this isn't the place for formal, fawning service - it's somewhere you can dump your shopping bags and enjoy fantastic food without ceremony.
A Culinary Journey Through Modern Greek Cuisine
The menu at Agora offers an eclectic selection more akin to a tapas or banquet experience than traditional starters and mains. Among the tempting options are:
- Frozen margarita for £10
- Impressive wild-farmed flatbread for £3.50
- Traditional spreads like Ezme salata or chard borani for £5 each
- Skewers including lamb (£4.50), pork (£5), chicken thigh (£6) and vegetarian options
- Elaborate flatbread toppings from £9.50 to £10.50
- Rotisserie pork belly (£15) and lamb souvla (£17)
I opted for a glass of Fattoria Di Vaira Vincenzo orange wine at £7.50 - an aromatic white with a distinctive orange lustre that proved surprisingly delightful. For food, I chose the grilled onion, pomegranate, sumac and mixed herbs salad (£7) alongside the rotisserie pork belly.
The salad was enchantingly original - chopped sweet onion in a vibrant sauce of turmeric juice and pomegranate molasses. The pork belly featured four plump cubes with thick, delicious crackling, though I later wished I'd been more adventurous with my choices after seeing the spectacular humous spreads and elaborate flatbreads on neighbouring tables.
Remarkable Value in London's Dining Scene
What makes Agora's achievement particularly noteworthy is its accessibility. In a city known for expensive fine dining, meals here are typically priced at less than £50 per person. My bill for two dishes and a glass of wine came to just £34.40 - exceptional value for the quality and experience.
The entire walk-in experience lasted around half an hour, perfectly timed for a lunch break or quick dinner. As I left, recharged and ready to continue my London escapade, I was left with that compelling feeling that every food lover recognises - I need to return to try more of this intriguing menu.
Agora souvla bar represents everything that makes London's food scene extraordinary: exceptional quality, vibrant atmosphere and remarkable value, all wrapped up in an unpretentious package that truly deserves its accolades.
