From Prison to Fine Dining: The Remarkable Story Behind 2210
On an ordinary evening in Herne Hill, south-east London, the atmosphere at 2210 by Natty Can Cook feels anything but. The restaurant, helmed by chef Nathaniel Mortley, represents a dramatic turnaround for both the chef and Caribbean cuisine in the capital. What began as a casual dinner outing for this reviewer quickly revealed itself as a special occasion destination, filled with impeccably dressed patrons enjoying rum punch and elegantly plated dishes.
An Unexpected Journey to Culinary Excellence
Nathaniel Mortley's path to opening his own restaurant took several unexpected turns. After beginning his cooking career as a teenager and working at prestigious establishments including Oblix and Jason Atherton's City Social, Mortley found himself serving time at Brixton prison. Rather than derailing his career, this period became pivotal when he began working at The Clink, the charity-led restaurant within the prison where inmates handle both cooking and front-of-house duties.
The experience prompted Mortley to reconsider his direction, ultimately leading to his current venture. His previous residency at the Greyhound pub in Peckham had already earned him a loyal following for dishes like red snapper with corn salsa and jerk chicken with brown butter mash, but 2210 represents a significant step up in ambition and execution.
A Menu That Transcends Expectations
The culinary experience at 2210 begins with delightful surprises like thin, crisp roti served with an irresistibly addictive scotch bonnet butter dip. Starters include an exceptional ackee and saltfish spring roll described as a "crispy beast" filled with rich, moist fish, served on a red pepper velouté and drizzled with spring onion emulsion.
Main courses continue the excellence with standouts including jerk chicken supreme elegantly flavoured with thyme, garlic and cinnamon, accompanied by a sharp mango and pineapple salsa. The seared pimento duck breast served with confit duck leg croquette and pumpkin puree particularly impressed, while lamb belly skewers with masala reduction demonstrated the kitchen's creative range.
Investment-Worthy Dining Experience
While 2210 isn't inexpensive—with starters around £12 and mains approximately £30—the quality justifies the pricing. The attention to detail in every dish makes it suitable for special occasions, though the experience warrants visiting regardless of the reason.
Desserts maintain the high standards, particularly the deep-fried apple crumble featuring large hunks of pickled apples with apple gel and caramelised pecans, all served with coffee chantilly and split basil creme anglaise. The plantain cake with white chocolate ganache provides a more modest but equally satisfying alternative.
Located at 75 Norwood Road, London SE24, 2210 by Natty Can Cook has quickly become a destination restaurant that transcends being merely "posh jerk chicken at fancy prices." With opening hours from Wednesday to Sunday and prices starting from about £50 per head for three courses (or £45 on Sundays), this establishment represents a significant new chapter in London's Caribbean dining scene.
