The latest culinary sensation to captivate north London is a roaming pop-up that has found a perfect home. Ling Ling's, the celebrated Cantonese-inspired concept from chef Jenny Phung and partner James 'Shep' Shepherd, has begun a year-long residency at the charming Godet wine pub in Islington.
A Nomadic Kitchen Finds Its Latest Home
For several years, Ling Ling's has built a loyal following through successful residencies at venues like The Gun in Hackney and The Bluecoats in Tottenham. Preferring this flexible model to a permanent bricks-and-mortar site, the duo's latest move sees them take over the kitchen at Godet on 382 Essex Road until at least late 2026. The setting is described as a Provençal country cottage meets a classic London boozer, painted in a distinctive tangerine hue and filled with vintage decor, fresh flowers, and candlelight.
Flavour and Texture Take Centre Stage
The food at Ling Ling's is anything but background. The menu is a masterclass in bold flavours and contrasting textures. It begins with exceedingly crunchy fried pork and water chestnut wontons, praised for their golden, bubbly wrappers and juicy interiors. Radish cakes maintain a satisfying crispness under a soy pomegranate dressing, while a playful plate of mapo radishes and cucumber continues the crunchy theme.
A standout dish is the charred hispi cabbage, which the review notes has been reinvented. Slathered in a deeply umami, near-nutty sauce with pickles and hoisin, it provides a wonderfully 'wet' contrast to the preceding crispness. Other highlights include glass-skin chicken in a flavourful broth with mushrooms and greens, and impeccably cooked octopus with crispy tentacles served in a creamy coconut sambal.
The Perfect Pairing: Food, Wine, and Vibe
Despite the evident skill and complexity behind each plate, the food feels homely rather than fussy. The experience is complemented by Godet's atmosphere, where vintage dub reggae plays and the focus is on an ever-changing list of French wines, with Champagne available from £12 a glass. The combination of low-lit pub romance and thrilling, cheffy Chinese cooking creates a compelling destination. As the review concludes, Ling Ling's is currently one of the best places to eat in London, offering a unique date-night or culinary adventure spot in the heart of Islington.
