Leith's Transformation: A Local's Guide to Edinburgh's Revitalised Port District
The new Port of Leith Distillery offers breathtaking views over the Firth of Forth, symbolising the area's modern reinvention. This historic port district, once immortalised in Irvine Welsh's Trainspotting, has evolved into a dynamic cultural and culinary centre. In this feature, a long-term resident delves into the venues and initiatives driving Leith's remarkable resurgence, showcasing why it stands as Edinburgh's creative heart today.
Why Visit Leith Now: A Blend of History and Innovation
Leith serves as Edinburgh's port district, where centuries of trade and ideas have shaped its unique character. At the confluence of the Water of Leith river and the sea, the Shore area comes alive on sunny days with bustling pubs and restaurants. Having moved here over a decade ago, it has been a delight to witness the area's continuous evolution. Today, Leith thrives as a hub for artists, musicians, designers, and startups, supported by a flourishing food and drink scene. The introduction of the tramline from Edinburgh city centre in 2023 has further accelerated its growth, enhancing accessibility and connectivity.
While the gritty Leith of Trainspotting has faded, labelling it fully gentrified overlooks its resilient community spirit. Recent successful campaigns highlight this balance: locals rallied to prevent a Waterstones opening near the independent Argonaut Books and to restore benches on the Kirkgate used by day-drinkers. Leith embraces both tradition and progress, fostering a village-like community atmosphere alongside urban energy. Residents can engage in activities like digging at the Community Croft or exploring art galleries and fine dining, offering visitors an authentic Edinburgh experience free from tourist clichés.
Where to Eat and Drink: A Culinary Landscape of Diversity
Leith's dining scene spans Michelin-starred restaurants, community cafes, traditional pubs, and stylish cocktail bars. A wave of recent openings reflects the area's creative pulse. Chef Barry Bryson notes, "Leith blends old and new seamlessly, with decades-old establishments and fresh ventures creating a multicultural, varied community for all diners." His restaurant, Barry Fish, opened on the Shore in early 2025, quickly becoming a local favourite for dishes like trout pastrami and lobster agnolotti in its serene green interiors.
Chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and her husband Shaun McCarron launched the cafe-bar Ardfern in 2024, adjacent to their fine-dining spot The Little Chartroom. It's ideal for brunches, lunches, or dinners, with must-try hash browns topped with innovative ingredients like sprout kimchi. Shaun emphasises, "Being part of this supportive, creative community is truly inspiring." Similarly, Dogstar, opened by chef James Murray with Nauticus bar owners, focuses on community connection. Murray explains, "Choosing Leith was intentional; there's pride here, and locals support Leith spots cooking for Leith people." Enjoy dishes like shellfish from the coals and anchovy sauce-dipped focaccia in a vibrant setting.
Cultural Experiences: Art and Design at the Forefront
To immerse in Leith's artistic community, visit Custom Lane in the old Custom House building. This collaborative design space features workshops, galleries, and a top-notch cafe. Within it, Bard gallery and shop mimics a collector's home, showcasing contemporary Scottish design. Husbands Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens curate pieces that blend high-end design with domestic warmth, making it a must-see regardless of budget.
Across the river, Brown's of Leith, a Victorian warehouse transformed by GRAS architects, offers a multi-use creative space. The ground floor hosts ShrimpWreck shellfish bar, Haze for wine and snacks, and Civerinos pizza in a relaxed dining area. Architect Gunnar Groves-Raines states, "We aimed to create spaces that genuinely support creativity." Joseph Radford of Haze adds, "Leith's independent, creative identity rooted in history guides our approach." The atmosphere buzzes with energy, perfect for enjoying oysters and mussels.
Additional art spaces like Drill Hall, The Biscuit Factory, and Coburg House Art Studios host ongoing events. Excitingly, Leith Theatre has secured lottery funding to restore its 1932 art deco building, following volunteer efforts. Past pop-ups, including an Edinburgh International Festival residency, hint at a bright future for this venue.
Where to Shop: Independent Retail Gems
Leith boasts charming independent shops. Argonaut Books, located in the old train station, is run by avid readers and features a cafe and events. For unique gifts, explore Logan Malloch, Flux, and Handsel on Leith Walk, all selling local artists' work. Wine enthusiasts should visit the small independent Bludge for curated selections.
Don't Miss: Highlights of Leith's Offerings
While the Royal Yacht Britannia draws crowds, the Port of Leith Distillery stands out as a "vertical distillery" with nine-storey whisky production and unparalleled Firth of Forth views from its cafe. Stroll along the Water of Leith path, then visit craft brewery taprooms like Moonwake, Campervan, or Newbarns for a fresh pint, highlighting Leith's thriving beer scene.
Stay: Accommodation Options in Leith
For a comfortable stay, Malmaison Edinburgh offers smart riverside rooms from £77 room-only. For a unique experience, consider Fingal, a former lighthouse tender turned luxury hotel moored in Leith, with cabins from £269 bed and breakfast.
