In the heart of Fitzrovia, a basement restaurant is causing a serious stir with its uncompromising take on Northern Thai cuisine. Khao-So-i, the brainchild of self-taught Chiang Mai chef Win Srinavakool, has opened its doors at 9-10 Market Place, marking its most ambitious move yet beyond four successful locations in Bangkok.
The Engine Room of Flavour
The restaurant's foundation is a labour-intensive morning ritual where 100kg of coconut is pressed over three hours daily. This dedication to ingredient quality sets the stage for a dining experience that is both frenetic and deeply engaging. The dim-lit, earth-toned space, centred around a pyrotechnic open kitchen, thrums to a soundtrack of Thai rap and noughties R&B, creating a chaotic flair that slots effortlessly into central London's dining scene.
A Palate's Journey Through Northern Thailand
The menu encourages the Thai gap khao (mix-and-match) style of eating, leading diners on a thrilling journey. It begins with exquisite grilled Norfolk pork moo ping, tender and perfectly caramelised. The pla som (cured sea bream) offers silken, smoky flesh with complex depth. A standout is the laab dib, a raw beef tenderloin salad that redefines larb. Devoid of fish sauce, MSG, or sugar, it relies on herbs, spices, and Sichuan peppercorn for a pure, intense, and seductive kick.
The namesake Khao-So-i is the main event, served on a branded board. The version with nong-lye (braised beef shank) is a masterclass, featuring supremely tender meat in a broth of primal depth and sophisticated funk. The textural play between al-dente egg noodles and deep-fried crispy noodles is revelatory. For dessert, the cha Thai cheesecake, invented for London, is a luxuriously oozy, umami-rich must-order.
A Confident Export
Khao-So-i is more than just a restaurant; it's a confident Thai success story exported to a competitive city. The wine list and Thai-twisted cocktails are surprisingly considered, but the food remains the unwavering star. While walk-ins are possible, this is a place that deserves a booking and your full attention. It represents the most sincere and scintillating expression of Northern Thai cooking London has yet seen.
