Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High: A Sky-High Culinary Adventure
Perched sixty floors above the bustling streets of London, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High offers a dining experience that is as much about the numbers as it is about the food. With one Michelin star, twelve seats, and a ten-course tasting menu priced at £250 per person, this high-end spin-off from the original Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, which debuted in 1998, is part of a global network of over 90 establishments. The best of these are in London, including the lavish, French-accented Petrus in Knightsbridge and the elegant Savoy Grill, an art deco dining room in one of the city's most luxurious hotels.
The Setting and Ambiance
The vibe at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High is one of city slicker dining in a small, intimate room located at the top of a massive skyscraper. However, the experience is not without its flaws. The horseshoe seating arrangement, which typically surrounds the kitchen action, faces the window to maximize the view. While this makes sense given the draw of the panoramic sights, it leads to a significant issue on dark nights: a wildly distracting glare on the glass. This glare makes one's own reflection far clearer than the twinkling lights of Tower Hamlets and beyond, detracting from what should be a breathtaking visual experience.
The Culinary Highlights
The tasting menu, served to a soundtrack reminiscent of NME circa 2011 with artists like Mumford & Sons and Florence & the Machine, features several standout dishes. A fun, alchemical oyster is transmogrified into a popping pearl of ice cream awash with a seaweed mignonette, showcasing a clever and savoury twist that hints at Gordon Ramsay's sense of humour. Other hits include a punchy shellfish consommé and a fluffy gougère filled with smoked cheese and Iberico ham, which evokes the quality of an elite M&S picnic snack. The sage and onion parker house bread rolls are hilariously great, and seasonal ingredients like wild garlic and rhubarb are used with giddy aplomb. The cheese course, featuring an oozy wedge of Brie de Meaux on fruity malt loaf drizzled with honey, stands out as a favourite.
The Shortcomings
Not all dishes land as successfully. The shimmering John Dory, for instance, lacks flavour, while a slow-cooked hen's egg is overly soupy with undercooked whites seeping through a suspicious overcoat of black truffle. A lobster ravioli with langoustine and salmon, pitched as a trademark dish, is overly sweet and too tough on the al dente side. Additionally, the comfort level is compromised by a three-hour meal spent on slippery leather bar stools, making for an less-than-ideal dining experience.
Overall Assessment
There is no denying that Gordon Ramsay is one of the most accomplished chefs to emerge from Britain. With some adjustments, such as addressing the glare issue and improving dish consistency, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High could live up to his esteemed name and justify its lofty price tag. For those seeking a more affordable option with similar views, Gordon's new Bread Street Kitchen & Bar, opening on the 59th floor of 22 Bishopsgate on May 6, might be worth a try.
Address: 22 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4BQ. The restaurant offers a multi-course tasting menu with seasonal British ingredients, inspired by Ramsay's flagship Knightsbridge location, accompanied by a selection of posh wines, including pairings.
