The Quest for Paris' Perfect Steak Frites
When my friend Tom announced he was travelling to Paris to sample multiple versions of steak frites, I immediately volunteered to join his culinary expedition. Tom, who runs the Carlton Tavern pub in London, believed his steak and chips needed some French inspiration, prompting this delicious reconnaissance mission to the French capital.
A Dish Steeped in History and Philosophy
Steak frites, that quintessential French brasserie staple, rose to prominence during the 19th century as Paris filled with an urban working class seeking substantial, affordable meals. Today, it remains a fixture on prix fixe menus alongside classics like coq au vin and duck confit.
The dish has even attracted philosophical attention. In his essay collection Mythologies, renowned thinker Roland Barthes considered steak frites more than mere sustenance. He saw the juicy beef as representing vitality and brio, while the humble chip created a kind of dialectic on a plate - proving this simple dish carries significant cultural weight.
Five Parisian Establishments Put to the Test
Using the Eurostar Snap service, I secured a discounted £90 return ticket, and within three hours of leaving London, we were tucking into our first steak.
Robert et Louise in the Marais district has been operating since the 1950s, cooking steaks over an open fireplace. We sampled the entrecôte (ribeye) served with sauteed potatoes and a green salad. My medium-rare steak outperformed Tom's rare, with the extra cooking time allowing the fat to render beautifully. The combination of dressing, meat juices and mustard made sauce unnecessary. Cost: €25, Rating: 8/10
Brasserie Lipp on Boulevard Saint-Germain, founded in 1880, presented a classy atmosphere with vast mirrors and gleaming banquettes. My rump steak was average, while the fries lacked crispness. The undressed lamb's lettuce salad contributed little, though our waiter François provided entertainment with his brusque yet friendly service. Cost: €25, Rating: 6.5/10
Le Pick-Clops, a relaxed bistro popular with students, served onglet (butcher's steak) with dauphinoise potatoes and blue cheese sauce. The beef had some chew, allowing the other elements to collaborate effectively. When asked for recommendations, the bartender advised going "nowhere" - suggesting any place can master this dish. Cost: €15, Rating: 8.5/10
Bouillon République in the 3rd arrondissement offers classic dishes at remarkable prices in a retro setting. The rump steak proved challenging to chew, while the fries seemed previously cooked - understandable in a venue serving up to 450 covers. The pepper sauce was decent but couldn't salvage the meal. Cost: €12.60, Rating: 6.5/10
The Surprise Winner Emerges
Remembering the advice from Le Pick-Clops, we wandered into Le Bastringue near Canal Saint-Martin, drawn by its Amélie-esque atmosphere. The poire de boeuf (a pear-shaped cut from the top hind leg) arrived with slaw, miniature roast potatoes and shallot sauce. Requesting toutes les sauces tripled my dipping options, creating a delightful experience that earned top marks. Cost: €14, Rating: 9/10
The victory of "nowhere" taught us that sometimes bypassing hype and simply choosing any local spot yields the best results.
During our return journey from Gare du Nord, Tom sketched out his perfect steak frites concept. The winning combination? Onglet steak with skinny chips, Dijon mustard and dressed leaves - now available at his London pub for those curious to taste the inspired creation.
