Nestled just two doors down from its acclaimed sibling, The Dover, Dover Street Counter has emerged as a standout destination in London's Mayfair district. This debonair diner brings a refreshingly cool edge to an area steeped in tradition, offering an all-day dining experience that masterfully blends elegance with a playful, mischievous spirit.
A Glamorous Escape from the Everyday
From the moment you approach, Dover Street Counter captivates with its sleek, curved glass frontage—a design that evokes 1930s shopfront aesthetics filtered through a Parisian Fin de Siècle sensibility. Pushing open the door reveals a thick, floor-to-ceiling curtain that symbolically separates the mundane outside world from an interior realm of martinis, controlled mayhem, and irresistible atmosphere.
The experience is heightened by a soundtrack of universally appealing '90s hip-hop, setting a tone that is both sophisticated and effortlessly cool. While the establishment might modestly bill itself as a diner, it delivers so much more: a vibrant, multi-room sanctuary where every detail feels meticulously curated.
An Interior of Intrigue and Comfort
The first room features a gleaming chrome counter, adorned with domed rattan lights that seem borrowed from a classic film set. Here, the open kitchen allows diners to watch chefs at work, though a few intimate tables are available for those preferring a more discreet vantage point.
Moving further back, the space transitions into two cosier, womb-like rooms reminiscent of The Dover's aesthetic. With their dark wood panelling, subdued lighting, and plush seating, these areas are perfectly suited for confidential gossip, romantic dates, or simply savouring the ambiance away from the bustle.
A Menu of Unapologetic Classics
Dover Street Counter's culinary philosophy is refreshingly straightforward: serve the dishes people genuinely crave, executed to perfection. The menu is a concise celebration of comfort food favourites, eschewing fleeting trends in favour of timeless appeal.
Highlights include succulent tuna melts, impeccably crafted cheeseburgers, luxurious lobster, hearty salmon steaks, satisfying pasta dishes, and an array of generously filled sandwiches. This is food designed to delight, not to challenge.
Standout Dishes and Decadent Drinks
A meal might begin with a bracingly cold Gibson martini—a testament to the staff's willingness to accommodate off-menu requests. The famous "disco fries" are a must-try: a pile of chips lavishly adorned with pickled chilli, ginger, mayo, and a tangy "disco jus" that lives up to its infectious name.
The cheeseburger is a masterclass in the form, featuring a juicy beef patty crowned with vibrant cheese, pickles, ketchup, and mustard. Meanwhile, the spaghetti all'assassina intrigues with its occasional strands of delightfully charred, crunchy pasta. For a virtuous counterpoint, the tenderstem broccoli with crushed chilli and ginger vinaigrette provides a crisp, flavourful accompaniment.
The drinks list is equally compelling, boasting an excellent selection of creative cocktails and a well-chosen range of wines available by the glass or bottle.
The Unmistakable Vibe
Dover Street Counter has been wittily described as a "McDonald's for oligarchs," but this only scratches the surface of its appeal. It is, at its heart, a place that resurrects old-school majesty and vintage hospitality, presenting dolled-up diner classics in a setting that feels both exclusive and welcoming.
The food is surprisingly well-priced for Mayfair, offering classic fast-food fare elevated by premium ingredients and flawless execution. It's a venue that invites return visits—whether for the buttermilk fried chicken, a French dip sandwich, a chopped salad, or the massive lamb meatball.
Time Out Tip: Doors open at midday. Arrive for a leisurely lunch featuring a perfectly chilled martini and the legendary tuna melt.
Dover Street Counter is located at 31 Dover Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 4ND.
