In a city famed for its culinary queues, one restaurant chain consistently draws hungry crowds onto the pavement. Dishoom, with its vibrant take on Bombay cafe culture, has become a London institution. Journalist Abigail Rabbett of London World visited the Covent Garden branch for the first time in mid-December 2025, finally discovering what fuels the enduring hype.
The Dishoom Experience: More Than Just a Meal
Booking a table at the Covent Garden restaurant, located near the new Guinness Open Gate Brewery, proved essential. By 1:30 pm on a weekday, a queue had already formed down the street, a clear testament to its no-reservation-walk-in risk. Stepping inside, the atmosphere was immediately distinct from a traditional British curry house. The space was alive with the energy of Christmas parties and the irresistible aroma from the kitchen, offering Indian dining with a modern, buzzy London twist.
The menu confidently bridges tradition and innovation, inviting diners to explore small plates or dive into renowned, flavour-packed curries. The experience extends to the bar, with cocktails like the subtly spicy Dishoom Margarita and the blush-pink Bombay Bellini providing a sophisticated start.
A Flavour Journey: From Fiery Start to Decadent Finish
The meal began with two standout small plates. The okra fries, coated in a light tempura-style batter, achieved a perfect contrast of crisp exterior and soft interior, arguably surpassing the humble chip. They served as an ideal vehicle for the accompanying smoky and creamy sauces.
Equally memorable was the chilli chicken, which delivered tender, flavour-packed morsels that began sweetly before unleashing a throat-tickling heat that demanded a ready glass of water. This powerful opening act set a high bar for the mains.
The main course selection was a feast for the senses. The table was covered with Dishoom's famous Ruby Murray curry, chicken tikka, garlic naan, tandoori roti, and rice. Each dish was bold, intensely flavoured, and generously portioned, offering familiar comforts refined to an exceptional standard. A particular recommendation was to choose the light, pillowy roti over the naan for superior sauce-scooping.
The Verdict: Understanding the Legendary Status
Even after the hearty mains, the desserts demanded attention. A decadent, oozing chocolate fondant with ice cream was followed by a piping hot, almost custardy-sweet chai tea, the perfect indulgent conclusion. Throughout, the service was warm, friendly, and impressively attentive despite the relentless pace of a packed restaurant.
Abigail Rabbett's visit on 17th December 2025 provided a clear answer to the perennial question. Dishoom's combination of elevated yet comforting food, vibrant atmosphere, and impeccable service justifies its stellar reputation. While the prospect of a queue might be daunting, the experience within makes it a London culinary pilgrimage worth planning—and booking—for.
