End of an Era for Sydney's Cult Noodle Spot
The iconic Chinese Noodle House in Sydney's Haymarket district will serve its final bowls of hand-pulled noodles on 12 December, marking the end of a decade-long tenancy that has become a cornerstone of the city's food scene. The closure comes after the building's landlords declined to extend the lease, creating an unexpected twist that will see two competing restaurants operating under the same name.
A Family's Decade of Hard Work
For tenant owners including Eric Zhang and his mother-in-law Tina Wang, the closure represents the end of an era they built from the ground up. Wang, a former employee of the neighbouring Chinese Noodle Restaurant, purchased the business and signed a 10-year lease with previous owners John Sun and Susanna Chen back in 2016.
"We make the business boom, go up and up... we're working so hard," Zhang told reporters, expressing both disappointment at leaving their Thomas Street premises and gratitude for overwhelming customer support. "All our customers are standing behind us, they said they're going to come back and they always support us... We're very touched."
The Landlords' Return
In a surprising turn of events, the original landlords plan to reopen in the same location with their own version of Chinese Noodle House in February. Chen defended their decision, stating: "We built this restaurant, we do everything, the menu, everything, from the beginning. We already built a business, a very good foundation."
The relationship between tenants and landlords reportedly deteriorated over rent disputes and personal differences, ultimately leading to the lease not being renewed. Meanwhile, the current tenant owners hope to reopen nearby under the identical name, potentially creating confusion for loyal customers.
A Complicated Noodle Legacy
The situation highlights the complex web of Sydney's noodle restaurant scene, which traces back to former restaurateur Xiaotang Qin. His various "Chinese Noodle" establishments across the city are now operated by relatives and former employees, creating multiple restaurants with similar names, menus, and even identical plastic grape decorations hanging from ceilings.
The imminent closure has triggered an emotional response from customers, with queues forming even during traditionally quieter hours. Interestingly, the confusion has extended to the neighbouring Chinese Noodle Restaurant, which has also seen increased patronage from concerned customers.
Elvis Kernaghan, a visitor from the Gold Coast, perfectly illustrated the naming confusion when he expressed devastation about "the greatest restaurant in Australia" closing, only to realise he'd never actually visited the establishment facing closure. "My dad was coming here before I was born... I was very sad last night when I saw the news," he said, before admitting he preferred the neighbouring restaurant anyway.
Community Reactions and Loyalties
Local business owners expressed mixed feelings about the departure. Andy Dong Lin, who operates a nearby dumpling shop and previously worked with Wang, said: "I knew them since I was a student, they are very nice people. I feel sad for them."
Regular customers like Fiona and Zack, who work at the ABC, emphasised the strong allegiances that have developed over the years. "That's terrible, it's not the same," Fiona said of the replacement restaurant. "There's a real allegiance, you're either a Chinese Noodle Restaurant or a Chinese Noodle House person."
As Chunfeng Zhang, owner of another local noodle spot, observed: "The tenant has no decision-making power. That is an unchangeable fact." Her comment underscores the precarious nature of tenancy in competitive food precincts, where landlords ultimately hold the cards.
The final days of the original Chinese Noodle House will likely see continued queues of loyal customers paying their respects to the cafeteria-style establishment that became much more than just a place to enjoy hand-pulled noodles - it became a Sydney institution whose legacy will continue, albeit in multiple competing forms.
