For British families seeking the allure of the French coast without the premium price tag of its most famous resorts, the Charente-Maritime region presents a compelling and vibrant alternative. Located just south of the well-trodden paths of Île de Ré and La Rochelle, this area offers wide sandy beaches, extraordinary seafood traditions, and a rich tapestry of post-war architecture, all wrapped in a more affordable, authentic package.
A Feast for the Senses: Oysters, Flames and Canal-Side Dining
The culinary heart of this coastal region beats strongest along the banks of the River Seudre, particularly in working oyster-farming villages like La Tremblade. Here, dinner is preceded by a dramatic spectacle. At restaurants such as La Cabane des Bons Vivants, the curious local tradition of moules à l'éclade takes centre stage.
This novel cooking method, developed by Marennes-Oléron oyster farmers, involves piling long, skinny pine needles over a board of carefully arranged mussels and setting them alight. The resulting orange flames bellow up briefly, cooking the shellfish in their own juices within the large, open oven. The reward for this fiery prelude is sliding apart the charred shells to discover succulent, juicy molluscs inside.
The avenue known as La Grève, lined with colourful, ramshackle huts and rustic pontoons overlooking the oyster beds, provides an alluring setting for a sunset meal. The atmosphere is uniquely lively, rooted in the daily rhythms of a genuine working village.
Royan: Futuristic Markets and Architectural Marvels
A logical first stop for any self-catering holiday in the region is the remarkable Marché Central de Royan. Completed in 1956, this market hall boasts a decidedly futuristic design. Beneath its 50-metre-span dome, a space-age pattern of skylights illuminates the stalls, creating the impression that this concrete flying saucer might lift off at any moment.
The market's offerings are a gastronomic treasure trove. Visitors can stock up on local delights including creamy Brillat-Savarin cheese, fruity Comté, the regional terrine known as le grillon charentais, and an abundance of fresh, perfumed produce. The experience is a test of willpower as each stallholder tempts with a persuasive "Avec ceci?"
A short walk away stands another post-war masterpiece, the Église Notre-Dame de Royan. Rebuilt after Allied bombing in the Second World War, its extraordinary concrete belltower and sharp angular structure dominate the skyline. The interior is even more breathtaking, with V-shaped pillars framing a triangular stained-glass window and thin panes of white glass. Its striking design is said to have inspired the audience hall in Dragonstone from the television series Game of Thrones.
Sandy Shores and Island Escapes
The coastline here spoils visitors for choice. For families seeking Atlantic wave action, Plage Le Vieux Phare near the cartoon-like red-and-white Phare de la Coubre lighthouse is ideal for bodyboarding. For a more sedate day, a trip to the Île d’Oléron—twice the breadth of the Île de Ré—reveals the beautiful crescent of Plage de Boyardville.
This shallow lagoon beach, reached through towering pine forests, offers a picturesque picnic spot. On the horizon, the silhouette of Fort Boyard looms. Completed in 1857 amid Anglo-French tensions to house 250 soldiers and 74 cannons, the fort is famously known as the setting for a 1990s international game show. The island's main town, Saint-Pierre-d’Oléron, charms with its white-washed, shuttered houses, swaying hollyhocks, and a relaxed, slightly scruffier vibe than its more polished northern neighbour.
The exploration continues in picturesque villages like Mornac-sur-Seudre, with its white-washed houses and blooming wisteria, and back in La Tremblade for a final feast. At La Cabane de la Grand-Mère, another mussel speciality awaits: moules à la brasero. Marinated with herbs, onions, white wine and olive oil and cooked on a griddle, they provide a delicious rival to the éclade. As one local proprietor noted, while the brasero might win on flavour, "with the éclade, it’s a much bigger spectacle! The flames are amazing!"
With its combination of dramatic culinary traditions, stunning mid-century architecture, expansive beaches, and a genuinely authentic atmosphere, Charente-Maritime proves itself as a richly rewarding and more affordable family destination on France's captivating west coast.
