Stepping through the heavy velvet curtain into Casa Felicia on Salusbury Road is like entering a different world. The transition from the quiet Queen's Park street to the restaurant's chic and elegant interior is immediate and striking. The main dining room, with its whitewashed walls, is filled with closely packed tables for two, while a dramatic, sultry red booth caters to larger groups. While 'homely' might not be the first descriptor, the venue gradually reveals a profound and unexpected down-to-earth charm as the evening unfolds.
The Food: Southern Italian Soul with a Twist
Helmed by chef Francesco Sarvonio, whose credentials include stints at acclaimed restaurants Manteca and Elephant, Casa Felicia is a heartfelt tribute to Southern Italian 'soul food'. The menu changes daily, promising a genuine and evolving culinary experience. A meal might begin with a delightful puntarelle salad, embellished with pear and hazelnuts, or a faultless seabass crudo dotted with crispy red pepper.
One of the standout starters is a revolutionary take on the classic parmigiana. Abandoning the traditional layered approach, the kitchen serves a whole roasted aubergine, skinned and fried in a light tempura batter. It arrives cocooned in a rich cheese fondue with a side pool of marinara sauce. The result is fantastic – the batter is as delicate as a chiffon blanket, and the aubergine itself manages to be both firm and utterly melt-in-the-mouth.
A word of caution: do not overindulge in the antipasti. The portions of pasta are truly generous. These bowls are handmade using just semolina and water, resulting in a perfect al dente bite and an impeccable sauce-to-carb ratio. Simplicity shines in dishes like the fettuccine porcini, which is deep, dark, and creamy, and the paccheri with mussels and squid, a sweet, tangy, and moreish delight.
Beyond Pasta: Grandiose Mains and a Messy Finale
Pasta is not an obligation at Casa Felicia. A rotating specials menu offers grand plates of meat or fish designed for sharing, such as an £85 bistecca alla fiorentina or a £95 whole turbot. For dessert, trusting the server proved to be a masterstroke. Forsaking the classic tiramisu, we were rewarded with a perfect pillow of a potato doughnut, coated in lavender sugar and topped with a delicate pile of Verdello lemon zest that resembled candyfloss.
This is the point where sophistication is abandoned. There is no choice but to get messy. The accompanying dense mascarpone and dulce de leche dip requires a hands-on approach, with torn pieces of doughnut needed to secure a proper, well-rounded mouthful.
The Unforgettable Finishing Touch
Just when it seemed Casa Felicia could not be more charming, the post-dessert offering of roasted chestnuts sealed the deal. Chef Francesco delivered the steaming chestnuts himself, explaining that dinner at his grandmother's house would be incomplete without them. This gesture transformed the bustling, conversation-filled room.
Despite every chair being occupied, the chestnuts – which require time and effort to crack open – served as a genuine invitation to linger, defying any expectation of being rushed off the table. It was a final, wholesome touch that perfectly encapsulated the restaurant's Neapolitan spirit.
The vibe is a wholesome tribute to Neapolitan cooking. The food is traditional Southern Italian fare with a few playful twists. The drink list is a thoughtfully curated roster of reds, whites, sparkling, and orange wines, though only one of each is available by the glass. For a perfect end to the meal, our Time Out tip is to pair your pudding with an icy glass of Amaro Montenegro, an iconic Italian digestif.
