Lying in a copper bathtub, steam envelops me as I gaze over the gently rippling lake. Cold air nips at my nose, and I breathe a deep sigh as my eyes settle on a heron perched on the banks. It is freezing, but I am in heaven. Surrounded by woodland and meadows dotted with cows and alpacas, it is hard to believe this is just 25 minutes by train from London. That is what awaits at Tewinbury Farm Hotel.
Once a dairy farm, this family-run operation is now a collection of lakeside lodges and woodland huts with lovely walks through the Hertfordshire countryside, just outside Welwyn Garden City. It is best described as a more affordable, family-friendly alternative to Soho Farmhouse, where a night starts from £600. The farm features an outdoor cinema, freshwater swimming lakes, a co-working space, and fields full of beehives.
The Lay of the Land
Tewinbury is two miles from Welwyn North station, which runs fast trains into London. The towns of Hertford, Hatfield, and St Albans are all nearby. At the farm, you might expect to bump into celebrities like Posh and Becks or Jeremy Clarkson, who retreated to the West England countryside for peace—only to meet hordes of tourists. The hotel, resembling a rural tourism complex, is set back from the road. To reach it, you cross a bridge over the Mimram chalk river, known as the jewel in Hertfordshire's crown. Chalk streams are among the rarest freshwater habitats on Earth, and England is home to 85% of them. At Tewinbury, you may spot a kingfisher, reed warbler, or siskin enjoying the water.
The Rooms
Armed with wellies, we collect our supplied Land Rover Defender (£150 per day) from the reception-cum-farm shop, designed to give city-dwellers a taste of country life. From the hotel's complex of old farm buildings and shepherd's huts, we are given the Lake Hut, which has a private jetty onto the lake. It is a delightful space with a small kitchen area and a sofa, partitioned from the double bed. It feels cosy and homely. The real selling point is the outdoor bathtub, where you can soak for hours under the night sky.
Food and Activities
Walking should be top of your list at Tewinbury. Maps are available for nearby strolls, and guests can borrow Barbours and wellies from the boot room. We meet the alpacas: Jethro, Jackson, and Jefferson, along with resident horses and piglets. Children will love feeding the alpacas—a bag of food from reception costs £5. There is also a small wooden play area. We sign up for a couple's cooking class in one of the on-site barns. A glass of bubbles is served on arrival, and we make three dishes under the patient instruction of head chef Lee: lemon posset, chocolate truffles, and beef wellington. I forget to strain the lemon seeds from the posset and bicker with my partner about who is responsible. But in the end, it all gets done. My favourite part is eating the food, and it would be nice to get the recipes to take home next time.
The definite highlight is Sunday lunch at The Cowshed, the former home of the farm's dairy herd, now a British gastropub. The menu is seasonal, with ingredients from local suppliers and the farm's 700 acres of homegrown produce. Most of the meat on your plate was reared in Tewinbury fields. The pork belly with caramel apple sauce and gravy is a classic done well at £22. My partner enjoyed the giant scotch egg (£10), a true country staple. To top it off, a salted caramel popcorn cheesecake with ice cream satisfies even the sweetest tooth. The most expensive item on the menu is £25, and it is worth every penny. More casual options include the outdoor Courtyard, lit by fairy lights at night with wood-fired pizza ovens and cocktails, and the Stable Bar, part wine bar and part co-working space. The farm also sells art hanging on the walls, and board games are free for guests.
What It All Costs
- To stay: Lake Huts start at £300 per night; Shepherds' Huts from £175 offer a similar experience without the private jetty and open-air tubs.
- Breakfast: Included in the nightly rate, with granola, yoghurts, pastries, and hot buffet options.
- Cooking class: Approximately £65 per person.
- Dinner at The Cowshed: A three-course meal costs roughly £40 per person, excluding alcohol.
- Total: About £400 for a night, plus food and activities.
