Berlin's Symbolic Israeli-Palestinian Restaurant Kanaan Announces Spring Closure
Kanaan, the celebrated Berlin restaurant that became an international symbol of Israeli-Palestinian cooperation and culinary diplomacy, will close its doors in March after nearly a decade of operation. The establishment's Jewish and Arab owners have confirmed the impending closure, citing a combination of economic challenges, bureaucratic hurdles, and the increasingly fraught political environment surrounding the Middle East conflict.
From Dining Destination to Television Drama
While the physical restaurant will cease operations, the spirit of Kanaan will continue through an innovative television adaptation. German production company Traumfabrik Babelsberg has announced plans for a miniseries titled Breaking the Binary, described as a politically charged "dramedy" that will explore the complex dynamics between the restaurant's founders. The series draws inspiration from successful shows like The Bear while tackling the unique challenges faced by the protagonists.
The television project has attracted significant talent, including author and journalist Mirna Funk, Arab-Israeli actor Yousef Sweid known for roles in Game of Thrones and Unorthodox, and screenwriter-director Thomas Mielmann. Both restaurant owners are actively involved in shaping the series, providing input on writing and character development to ensure authenticity.
A Decade of Culinary Diplomacy
Founded in 2015 in Berlin's Prenzlauer Berg district, Kanaan (German for Canaan) quickly established itself as more than just a dining establishment. With its motto "Make Hummus Not War," the 120-seat restaurant became a neighbourhood institution celebrated for bridging religious and political divides through food. The multi-ethnic team served innovative dishes like shakshuka lasagne while promoting a message of unity that gained particular resonance following the October 2023 Hamas attacks on Israel and subsequent Gaza conflict.
The restaurant's symbolic importance was recognised at the highest levels, with German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier inviting owners Oz Ben David and Jalil Dabit to his Berlin palace in late 2023 to discuss addressing Middle East-related tensions in Germany. Ben David used the platform to critique Germany's often restrictive approach to pro-Palestinian demonstrations and expressions of solidarity.
Challenges and Resilience
Kanaan's journey was not without difficulties. In 2024, the premises were ransacked following a queer Jewish-Muslim brunch event, and the owners faced persistent anonymous threats. Berlin Mayor Kai Wegner visited the restaurant soon after the attack during its regular drag brunch, praising Kanaan as "exemplary" in its efforts to overcome deep-seated divisions. An online fundraising campaign to support rebuilding efforts raised nearly €30,000 (£26,000), demonstrating significant public support.
Ben David explained the decision to close, noting that many patrons now seek dining experiences without political associations. "People say: 'Unless we have a good reason to go out from the house and to spend some money, we want to do it in some quiet Italian place, a Japanese place, without the whole story behind it,'" he described, referring to what he called a "political overdose" among customers regarding Middle East tensions.
Looking Forward with Optimism
Despite the closure, both owners express optimism about the future. Dabit, speaking from the mixed Israeli city of Ramla, described the situation as "bittersweet" but exciting regarding the television project. "It was hard but after I talked with Oz we understood it is the best thing to do," he reflected. "It's like if you have a child and release him to the world – it's a good thing."
Ben David views the transition as a new beginning that will allow their message to reach broader audiences. Beyond the television series, the partners plan a Germany-wide cooking tour beginning in April. "It's no longer (just) a story of Israelis and Palestinians but about people who disagree and still can dream and envision something together," he explained. "Hopefully we will reach more hearts."
The closure of Kanaan marks the end of one chapter in Berlin's culinary and cultural landscape but opens new avenues for sharing its powerful message of cooperation and understanding across political divides.
