The London dining scene has a new star, quite literally. AngloThai, the long-awaited permanent restaurant from culinary duo John and Desiree Chantarasak in Marylebone, was awarded a Michelin star in February 2025. This marks a triumphant homecoming for the chefs, who have built a formidable reputation as pop-up pioneers, and firmly establishes their innovative vision on the capital's gastronomic map.
A Cinematic Setting for a Culinary Vision
Stepping into the Marylebone venue is an experience in itself. The interior is described as a space that feels as if it were conjured by the creative lovechild of visionary filmmakers Denis Villeneuve and Pedro Almodóvar—a blend of sleek futurism and vibrant, passionate drama. This provides the perfect stage for John Chantarasak's cooking philosophy. He is renowned for reinterpreting the thunderous spirit of Thai cuisine through the lens of impeccably sourced British ingredients. Any notion that this approach might dilute the power of Thai flavours is swiftly dismissed by the pungent sweet-and-sour broth offered to every guest, a bold opening statement of intent.
A Menu of Impeccable Execution and Intrigue
The menu is a punctiliously executed journey across the full spectrum of Thai tastes, from hyper-zippy and fresh to richly warming and unctuous. It begins with explosively enticing offerings like a Carlingford oyster swathed in a vermillion elixir of sea buckthorn and fermented chilli. This is followed by creations such as a pillowy flatbread adorned with a medley of herbs, funky shrimp butter, and saline molluscs.
Other savoury highlights captivating diners include:
- Delicately spiced radish cakes.
- A deeply comforting wagyu ox tongue massaman curry.
- A sublime pork chop accompanied by a smoked chilli relish that balances nectarean sweetness with sultry heat.
For those seeking unabashed ferocity, the wok-fired hogget delivers. The experience then gracefully winds down with a palate-cleansing milk ice cream with carrot, served alongside an alphonso mango-esque sea buckthorn sauce.
Smart Pairings and Time Out Tips
Complementing the culinary fireworks is a thoughtfully curated wine list. It has been smartly crafted to meld with the complex Thai flavours, featuring both expected pairings like German and Austrian Riesling, and more leftfield choices such as skin-contact rosé from Greece. Exploring this list is highly recommended to complete the AngloThai experience.
The arrival of AngloThai's permanent home and its subsequent Michelin recognition signifies more than just a success story for the Chantarasaks. It represents a mature and confident chapter for London's fusion dining, where respect for tradition and innovative, ingredient-led storytelling create a truly original and award-winning proposition.
