First Impressions: A Landmark Location
Finding Cicoria, the latest culinary venture from acclaimed chef Angela Hartnett, feels like something of an adventure. Nestled within the majestic Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, this new Italian restaurant occupies a stunning open-plan space on the top floor of the historic building. The journey to your table involves a bag check at the entrance, a walk through a capacious lobby, navigating a staircase, and finally conquering a giant escalator. The effort, however, is rewarded with one of London's most dramatic dining settings.
The Dining Experience: Theatre and Cuisine
Cicoria aims to attract both theatre-goers and those simply seeking a fine meal, though its lack of a street-facing shopfront presents a challenge for drawing passing trade. The atmosphere is undeniably electric, filled with the excitement of a theatre night. The sight of guests dressed in gowns and formal wear adds to the sense of occasion, a rarity in most London restaurants. The buzzy sprawl of the dining room and the breathtaking views across Covent Garden's historic piazza are truly unparalleled.
The menu, pleasingly short and focused on seasonal Italian cookery, promises much. The young staff are charming and helpful, though Hartnett's absence from the kitchen is noticeable in some dishes. Highlights include excellent sausage-stuffed, deep-fried olives – the perfect pintxos-style snack. A salad of treviso radicchio is well-executed, with sweet figs and cooked shallots beautifully balancing the bitter leaves. And, as one might hope, the tiramisu is perfect: light, fluffy, and not overly rich.
The Verdict: Promise Amidst Inconsistency
However, not every dish hits the mark. A starter of halibut crudo, allegedly cured with citrus, was described as lacking a 'kick up the flavour arse', tasting mainly of nothing despite a hefty pile of fennel shavings. Limp focaccia was dry and needed salt. A main of lobster linguine was heavy on tomatoes and light on lobster, while breaded lamb cutlets were fun but came with a strangely sweet caponata.
The restaurant offers a grown-up, flashy vibe perfect for a pre-theatre dinner. The drink selection features lots of Italian wine, aperitivo options, and a short cocktail list. For the best experience, ask for a table with a view of the piazza. With a few tweaks to add more punch and personality to some dishes, Cicoria has the potential to become as impressive as the iconic building it calls home.
