‘It’s hard to convince people to be religious when they have nature like this,’ reflects Rolands, a pirts master, as he applies warm honey in a wooden hut deep in a Latvian forest. This was the start of an extraordinary four-hour ritual that left one traveller feeling cleansed, calm, and deeply respectful of a centuries-old tradition.
The Paris of the North: An Underrated Gem
This intimate pirts experience was just one highlight of a 72-hour trip to Riga, Latvia’s captivating capital. Often called the ‘Paris of the North’, Riga is an ancient, elegant city pulsing with the intrigue of its Soviet past. As novelist Graham Greene noted, the title fits perfectly, especially when wandering the UNESCO-listed Old Town (Vecrīga) on a crisp winter morning.
Riga is older than both Stockholm and St. Petersburg, standing as the grandest of the three Baltic capitals. It boasts a vibrant energy, from lively karaoke bars to a culinary scene that has caught Michelin’s eye. The cityscape is a stunning patchwork, featuring over 800 ornate Art Nouveau buildings in shades of bubblegum pink, blue, and yellow, standing alongside stark Brutalist structures from the Soviet era.
Since shedding communism in the early 1990s and joining the EU in 2004, Latvia has surged forward. For visitors, Riga represents a rare find in modern Europe: outstanding value. Recent analysis by Post Office Travel Money crowned it Europe’s most affordable city break, with a two-night trip averaging just £252.63. This affordability is reflected in a more than 20% increase in foreign tourist arrivals in early 2025, with significant numbers coming from the UK.
A Detailed 72-Hour Itinerary for Riga
Day One begins with an easy transfer from the compact airport. The 22 bus reaches the Old Town in under 40 minutes, or a Bolt taxi costs around €14. After checking in, fuel up at Mikla bakery on Dzirnavu Street for excellent coffee and cardamom buns. Spend the afternoon exploring the walkable Old Town, a living museum featuring the House of the Blackheads, the 800-year-old Riga Dome Cathedral, and St Peter’s Church—take the lift to the top for panoramic views if the weather is clear.
Follow the Daugava River to the vast Central Market to sample Latvian delicacies like potato and cottage cheese pie, cherry cookies, and honey brandy—all for under £10. As evening falls, visit the charming and authentic Christmas market (open until 4 January 2026) before a superb dinner at 3 pavāru restorāns (The Three Chefs). Cap the night with a decadent cocktail at Black Magic, the purported birthplace of Latvia’s national liqueur, balsam.
Day Two is for culture and history. Start with brunch at Mulberry in the Central District before immersing yourself in the lavish Art Nouveau district around Alberta Street. A fun local fact: this area doubled for London’s Baker Street in the hugely popular Soviet-era Sherlock Holmes series, as the crew couldn't film in England during the Cold War.
Dive into Latvia’s complex 20th-century history at the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia (€8) and the free, powerful Popular Front Museum. After a budget-friendly lunch at the Latvian favourite Lido, walk through Bastejkalns Park to the imposing Freedom Monument. If energy remains, cross the river to explore the gentrified Āgenskalns district, famed for its wooden houses and food market. Conclude with innovative small plates at Michelin-featured Māsa, and don’t miss the giant ‘death’s head’ Putin banner facing the Russian embassy on Independent Ukraine Street—a stark, modern political statement.
Day Three offers a choice of excursions. Head west to Jūrmala, a resort town with beautiful beaches, accessible by train for a few pounds. Alternatively, embrace ultimate relaxation with a return to tradition at Ziedlejas wellness centre near Sigulda for the profound pirts ritual (four-hour sessions from €260). This region, known as the ‘Switzerland of Latvia’, offers picturesque villages and medieval castles for exploration. Return to Riga for a final feast of modern Latvian cuisine at Kaļķu vārti or a medieval banquet at Rozengrals in a 13th-century cellar.
Where to Stay and How to Get There
Riga’s accommodation offers great value. For a functional, well-located stay, Aparthotel Amella offers double rooms from just £39 per night. For a historic treat, the five-star Grand Palace Hotel—once the Central Bank of Latvia—provies old-world elegance in the heart of the Old Town from £92 per night.
Riga is served by direct flights from the UK with Ryanair, Air Baltic, Wizz Air, and British Airways, making this enchanting and affordable Baltic capital an accessible and compelling destination for a unique long weekend.
