The Caledonian Sleeper train has been connecting Scotland and London since 1873, offering a unique overnight journey. With tickets starting from £54 and private rooms costing up to £475, many consider it a bucket-list experience. However, critics have called it 'first class prices and second class service.' I traveled from Euston to Inverness and back to see if it's worth the cost.
Before You Board
If you book a Club Ensuite room (around £520 for two), your journey begins at the guest lounge in London Euston. This hidden nook near platform one offers free snacks, hot drinks, showers, and clean toilets. You receive a key card for your room. I enjoyed a gluten-free brownie, but note that outside food is not allowed—my partner had to eat his Tortilla on the platform.
All Aboard
At 8:45pm, boarding began. The corridors are narrow, making it tricky to maneuver large suitcases. Our room featured a bunk bed, sink, toilet, and shower. It's cozy, with space for only one person at a time. The toilet door isn't soundproof, so privacy is limited. Luggage space under the bed was too small for my suitcase. However, the beds were extremely comfortable, with charging ports and light switches. The tartan-lined walls add a Scottish touch, but compared to LNER first class (from £109, five hours to Edinburgh), I expected more refinement.
Dining Car Experience
The Club Car is available only to passengers with rooms. Club Room and Caledonian Double guests get priority. The menu is small, with two starters and four mains. I had mushroom soup and lentil ragu (gluten-free options), while my partner enjoyed venison stew. Food is reasonably priced, but at nearly £1,000 for a round trip, I hoped dinner would be included.
Alternative Routes to Inverness
- Flying easyJet from London Gatwick: £43 return, 1 hour 45 minutes.
- LNER first class: £346.40, up to 9 hours.
- Flixbus: £42, 16 hours 17 minutes.
Heading to Bed
Our tap didn't work, so we brushed teeth with bottled water. Officials said this is rare and they'd move us if reported. The toilet is hidden under a bench. I skipped the shower to avoid wet socks. The top bunk was challenging to climb into while moving, but a barrier kept me safe. The gentle rocking was pleasant, but the noise was loud. Earplugs are provided, but bring your own if you're a light sleeper.
Breakfast with a View
Breakfast was a highlight. You order by hanging a tag on your door, and staff reserve a table. I shared with a 90-year-old gentleman named Brian, who shared fascinating stories. If you prefer privacy, breakfast can be delivered to your room, but you'll miss the scenic views of rolling hills and streams.
The Final Verdict
The Caledonian Sleeper is an adventure, but the price feels steep for the experience. Service was excellent—warm and attentive staff. If you have £1,000 to spare, it's worth ticking off the bucket list. However, for the cost, I expected more luxury. Light sleepers and late risers may want to consider alternatives.
At a Glance
- Arrivals/Departure: Lounge opens at 6pm, train leaves at 9:15pm.
- Ticket costs: Seats £54-£100; rooms from £210 to £570.
- Food included: Breakfast only; dinner extra.
- Disability access: Accessible rooms available, but note restrictions on certain routes.
- Standout feature: Comfortable beds.
- Perfect for: Professionals and staycationers.
- Not right for: Light sleepers or late risers.
