New Yorkers are increasingly irritated by the proliferation of London members' clubs opening branches in their city, with the latest controversy centering on Maison Estelle's plan to open a five-story venue with a roof terrace on the Upper East Side.
Community Board Votes Against Liquor License
The local community board voted 29 to 13, with one abstention, against granting a liquor license for the proposed club at 24 East 81st Street, between Madison and Fifth Avenues. The board urged authorities to decline the license, citing concerns about noise and privacy for nearby residents.
Jibril Younes, a representative of the building at 26 East 81st Street, where apartments sell for a median of $1.7 million, stated: "The proposed rooftop use at 24 East 81st would significantly impact the privacy and quality of life of our tenants. Instead of one family, our tenants would face 20 to 30 patrons gathering just 15 feet from their bedroom windows late into the evening."
Residents Voice Strong Opposition
Locals described the Upper East Side, situated next to Central Park, as a residential area that does not need more clubs. They expressed concern that people living in "really nice townhouses" would be disturbed by noise. Bill Bryan, a resident at 18 and 20 East 81st Street, said at the community board meeting: "I like to party more than anybody. This is not where we need it right now."
Frederick Lapham, president of the co-op board at 18 and 20 East 81st Street, added: "The back yard is really full of nice townhouses between Madison and Fifth Avenue on 80th and 81st Street, and sound carries like crazy back there, so we really are hopeful that you'll really limit the activity to the building and not to the terrace."
British Restaurateur Defends the Club
A British restaurateur with a venue on the Upper East Side, who spoke on condition of anonymity for fear of retribution, called the complaints "silly." They said: "The Upper East Side was moribund before we came. They are quite frankly lucky to have Estelle's. It's so quiet there, it's not like the West Village where you have people hanging around until the early hours of the morning. Any good restaurant or club opening on the Upper East Side should be celebrated by all residents."
Maison Estelle's Management Responds
Estelle's management has tried to calm the community board's nerves. The company operates three clubs in the UK: Maison Estelle in Mayfair, Celeste in Notting Hill, and Estelle Manor in Oxfordshire. It is also considering opening a "British country house" in upstate New York. Sean Coogan, a director of the company, told the board: "We're clubs with old-school values that really promise individualized service and the utmost discretion, but with a bit of a new-school spirit where our members have plenty to say but nothing to prove."
Wave of London Clubs in NYC
Over the past year, several London clubs have opened or announced plans to open in New York. Robin Birley, owner of 5 Hertford Street and Oswald's in Mayfair, has opened Maxime's on the Upper East Side. The Twenty Two, originally from Grosvenor Square, has opened its NYC outpost. Annabel's, a Mayfair stalwart, plans to open a site in the downtown meatpacking district.
British culture is currently in vogue in New York, according to Gemma Bell, a London restaurant PR expert who set up a satellite office in the city last month to represent British clients. She said: "British culture is particularly in vogue at the moment in NYC and I think it's wider than hospitality; it's the love for Arsenal, it's artists such as Olivia Dean and Raye taking the world by storm, it's British brands such as Barbour having a surge in popularity."
Bell added: "Being a hospitality operator in the UK is particularly tough at the moment; with costs continuing to increase, operators are finding it increasingly difficult to run viable businesses, so they're now starting to look elsewhere."
The British steakhouse Hawksmoor opened in New York in 2021 to great success, and this year the high-end British-Indian restaurant the Ambassadors Clubhouse launched its New York venue. Dishoom is also scouting for a site. One of the most hyped openings of the year is Dean's, a British-themed restaurant serving traditional dishes like quail scotch eggs and stargazy pie.
Robin Birley is cautiously optimistic about Maxime's long-term success: "Ask me in 18 months. It takes three years for a club to prove itself." He believes British operators are opening in New York because "London is rather depressing at the moment. Tax is part of it, and law and order in Mayfair is terrible. The Upper East Side is super safe compared to London. I was born and raised in London. It will come back, but right now I am sorry to say it is depressing."
