Madrid attracts more than six million foreign visitors a year, yet many barely scratch the surface of what the Spanish capital offers. For those seeking an authentic experience, a former resident shares how to see the city like a local, from historic markets to hidden museums and rooftop bars.
Start with food: markets and classic bites
The centre of Madrid is thronged with bars and cafés, but for cheap-and-cheerful eats, a market visit is essential. While the famous Mercado de San Miguel offers excellent local wines, cheese, cured meats and tapas, it also gets extremely crowded. Locals head to Mercado de San Antón in the trendy Chueca district or Mercado de la Cebada in the equally hip La Latina neighbourhood. These markets have plenty of tapas bars and ready-to-eat snacks, and locals still do their grocery shopping there.
For world-class calamares, go to El Brillante across from Atocha railway station. Ask for a 'mini de calamares' because the full-blown sandwich is a meal for two. Be prepared for the barman shouting your order across the room to the kitchen.
Walkable history: Los Austrias and Barrio de las Letras
Madrid is a walkable city, and many historic buildings can be viewed over a two-hour stroll. The Los Austrias district features some of the oldest buildings of the Hapsburg court, the Royal Palace and the main square, Plaza Mayor. From here, a short walk leads to Barrio de las Letras, where writers and poets of Spain's Golden Age lived, including the house of prolific playwright Félix Lope de Vega.
If visiting between mid-June and mid-September, spend a refreshing afternoon at Madrid Río Park Beach in the Arganzuela district. This urban water oasis offers wading pools, water jets and mist sprays – a cost-free way to cool off.
Art beyond the Prado: hidden gems
The Prado Museum is one of the world's great picture galleries, and standing before Velázquez's Las Meninas is an experience to treasure. To avoid crowds, head to the newly opened Royal Collections Gallery, built into the cliff above the Manzanares River – the sort of architectural audacity Madrid delights in. The Museo de Romanticismo captures the vibe of romanticism with beautifully laid-out paintings, furniture and decorative objects. Not to be missed is the Museo Cerralbo, in a 19th-century neo-Baroque palace near Plaza de España, where the Marquis of Cerralbo's paintings and antique furniture remain almost exactly as he left them.
For craftsmanship in action, visit the 300-year-old Royal Tapestry Factory. They still produce handmade tapestries and carpets for historic buildings, royal palaces and cathedrals, weaving on looms in use for almost 150 years.
Evening drinks and dining
For sherry lovers, La Venencia in Calle de Echegaray is a must. This bar opened in 1922 and has not had a lick of paint since. House rules are strictly enforced: no photography, no tips (they will be thrown back), and no beer or wine – ask for sherry or be shown the door.
A favourite restaurant is Julián de Tolosa, offering Basque dishes based on high-quality ingredients cooked simply. The menu is limited, but the chuletón rib steak and piquillo peppers are likely the best you'll ever taste. For great veggie dishes, head to La Huerta de Tudela, where produce comes from Tudela, the vegetable garden of Spain. The restaurant serves amazingly tasty dishes based on celery, onions, potatoes, peppers and beans.
End your time in Madrid at the Círculo de Bellas Artes rooftop bar, with a gin and tonic on a chaise lounge overlooking the city centre. At street level, cocktail bars offer sophistication and exotica, from the super-chill Lovo lounge to the Alice in Wonderland-themed Rosi la Loca, where the signature cocktail is served in a porcelain dragon's head spewing smoke. For an off-the-beaten-track terrace, try El Jardín de Diana on the roof of the Hyatt Centric Hotel on Gran Vía, offering superb signature cocktails and spectacular views.
Essentials: getting there and where to stay
Heathrow and Gatwick operate an average of 20 direct flights a day from London to Madrid. The Metro from Barajas Airport is the best option for a speedy trip to the city centre. For accommodation, One Shot hotels offer budget boutique vibes in central locations. NH Hotels has two comfortable mid-range hotels near Atocha. The quiet four-star H10 Puerta de Alcalá sits behind Retiro Park. For a splurge, the five-star Hotel Palace facing the Spanish Parliament is a 115-year-old gem, topped only by the Hotel Ritz, which once refused Jimmy Stewart a room because they did not admit actors – he resolved it by having the US Embassy book him a room under the name Colonel James Stewart.
