Europe's longest and most dramatic canyon, the Gorges du Tarn in southern France, now features a new long-distance hiking route, the GR736, which opened in 2023. The 300km trail runs from the Tarn River's source in the Cévennes national park to the city of Albi, with a five-day section through the gorge offering exceptional wildlife, medieval villages, and architectural oddities.
Wildlife and Scenery Along the Tarn
The Tarn River is home to trout, perch, carp, otters, frogs, toads, kingfishers, herons, and beavers. Hikers can spot beavers swimming upstream, as the water is so clear that almost every fish, frog, pebble, and ribbon of weed is visible. Above, vultures drift in groups of nine or ten, and the banks are dotted with orchids including monkey, bee, military, butterfly, pyramidal, and fragrant varieties. Over 30 orchid varieties have been recorded in this hotspot.
The Gorges du Tarn is a 33-mile (53km) limestone gully with rock formations and towering cliffs often rising 500 metres above the river. It is home to more than 3,000 vultures, as well as cuckoos, nightingales, red-billed choughs, and owls.
Medieval Villages and Architectural Curiosities
The gorge is dotted with medieval towns, abandoned hamlets, deserted churches, ruined castles, crumbling terraces, and architectural oddities. Many are only accessible on foot via “balcon” paths carved from the gorge itself. Highlights include Castelbouc, a semi-troglodytic hamlet with a castle on a vertiginous spur; Sainte-Enimie, one of France's “plus beaux villages” with honey-coloured houses; and Saint-Chély-du-Tarn, a restored village with an original bread oven, waterwheel, 12th-century church, and miniature chapel carved into the rock.
Hiking Experience and Logistics
The walk begins in Le Pont-de-Montvert, a historic town on Mont Lozère. For two days, hikers traverse a wilderness of menhirs, boulders, broom, and heather, then descend to wildflower meadows and forests. They walk about 10 to 15 miles a day, with luggage transported by minivan. A boat trip from La Malène offers views of beaver families and four varieties of vulture (griffon, black, bearded, and Egyptian).
Accommodation includes Le Parisien in Les Vignes, with pink-and-white striped walls and antique brass beds. Chef Amélie hopes the new route will bring new life to dying villages. The final day ends in Peyreleau, designated “une petite cité de caractère,” with ancient cobbled streets and medieval churches.
Inspiration from Robert Louis Stevenson
Hikers agree with Robert Louis Stevenson, who wrote: “If the garden of Eden exists, it’s in the valley of the Tarn …” The best times to hike are April, May, early June, and late September. On Foot Holidays offers a week-long self-guided trip with baggage-carrying service from £1,245 per person.
