Ellie Fazan and her sister Issy embarked on a five-day, 130km cycling trip through Normandy with their three-year-old sons, Sid and Ralph, using ebikes with child seats and camping along the way. The journey followed the Véloscénic, a 450km car-free greenway from Mont-Saint-Michel to Paris, with detours to explore the historic Perche region. Despite initial doubts from fellow campers, the trip proved a success, blending adventure with family-friendly stops.
Planning and Preparation
The sisters traveled from Portsmouth to Caen via overnight ferry and rented ebikes from Jean-Louis at Les Vélos Perchés, costing €35 per day. They used the France Vélo Tourisme website to find Accueil Vélo-accredited campsites, which offer services for cyclists like breakfast, repair kits, and luggage transfer. The number of such stops has tripled since 2019, making cycling holidays more accessible.
Day 1: Forest View and La Route Royale
After arriving at Forest View campsite near Rémalard, they tested their ebikes on the 25km La Route Royale loop. The ebikes made hills manageable, allowing them to enjoy stops at Moutiers-au-Perche for lunch. The children loved pointing at animals and singing, but both fell asleep mid-ride, prompting an early return to the campsite. Forest View, owned by Graham Allen, features wooden camping pods, hot showers, and a communal kitchen with home-cooked meals.
Day 2: Dîtes-le Avec des Fleurs Loop
The next day, they cycled the Dîtes-le Avec des Fleurs loop through the Réno-Valdieu forest and past the Manoir de la Moussetière. The route included steep climbs with rewarding views and exhilarating descents that delighted the boys. A picnic by the lake at La Chapelle-Montligeon provided a rest stop.
Accommodation at Café de la Place
In Courgeon, they stayed at Café de la Place, a bistro and bike repair station bought by Denis Hurtaud after he stumbled upon it while cycling. The café is Accueil Vélo-accredited and offers a garden for camping. Dinner featured chicken cooked in cider, a Perche speciality, and locals brought warm crepes for the children.
Day 3: Market at Mortagne-au-Perche
On the third day, they rode 8km to Mortagne-au-Perche for the market, where they enjoyed seasonal strawberries and local produce. After meltdowns from the tired toddlers, they headed to Carrouges to camp at the Parc Naturel Régional Normandie-Maine, in an orchard behind the Château de Carrouges. The park is Accueil Vélo-accredited but sees only five or six tent pitches per year. A storm hit that night, challenging their camping skills, but they persevered.
Day 4: Domfront and Cabane des Deux Chênes
They continued through Bagnoles-de-l'Orne to Domfront, a town with a medieval keep. The children played among the ruins. Their accommodation was the Cabane des Deux Chênes, a handbuilt cabin on stilts between two oak trees, with a secret room for the kids and a Nordic bath. The cabin sleeps 2-4 and costs from £138 per night.
Final Morning and Reflection
On the last morning, they visited Ferme de l'Yonnière, where Jérôme Forget produces AOP Poiré Domfront. He has planted a thousand pear trees and plans to host cyclists next spring. Jean-Louis drove them back, praising the beauty of the region. The trip, provided by Orne Tourism with travel via Brittany Ferries, proved that a family cycling holiday is possible and enjoyable. The sisters are already planning to return next summer to complete the entire route.
