London's newest afternoon tea is the city's most delicious secret, hidden within the historic walls of the Old War Office. A leather briefcase marked 'Classified' sits before me, alongside a propeller, a mini submarine, and an old military-style telephone. But these are not artefacts; they are exquisite cakes representing key elements of the top secret World War II mission Operation Mincemeat, which has recently become an award-winning West End musical.
A Taste of History
This cunning plot, devised by spies in a basement room beneath the panelled drawing room in Churchill's Old War Office, helped turn the war in Britain's favour. To divert Hitler's 100,000 troops from Sicily, the Allies floated a dead body off Spain carrying fake papers about a planned invasion of Sardinia. The ruse worked, and Hitler moved his soldiers. Among the plotters was Bond author Ian Fleming, who worked with MI5 colleagues at the Old War Office—now transformed into the sumptuous Raffles London at the OWO Hotel after an eight-year, £1.4 billion renovation.
The Afternoon Tea Experience
This month, the hotel launched an afternoon tea inspired by these incredible events. Each bite transports you back in time. The chocolate briefcase, a copy of the one carried by the fictitious officer, is a delicious mix of coffee and barley malt, nodding to wartime staples. Another cake, 'Unspoken Hero,' shaped like a propeller, honours the plane that crashed in Sicily and features lemon, olive oil, and basil—flavours of the island.
My favourite is the Intelligence Room cake, shaped like an old rotary telephone, with dark chocolate and whisky evoking masculinity and army messes. The Navy cake, shaped like a submarine in honour of HMS Seraph, which dropped the dead officer off the Spanish coast, fittingly includes Spanish flavours like turron. It is evocative and delicious in equal measure.
Savouries, Scones, and Inclusive Options
Sandwiches arrive first, fresh and generously loaded—the smoked salmon is a particular treat. Scones follow with indulgent cream, while the cakes are the finale, worthy of a medal. The restaurant team has also devised a magnificent, near-identical vegan version, as well as diabetes-friendly, nut-free, and gluten-free options. It is rare to find such an inclusive menu, and as a mother to a daughter who must avoid peanuts, I could not be more delighted.
The Setting and Service
The setting is perfect: panelled walls, formal pictures, comfortable chairs, and smart leather Chesterfield sofas give an air of an officer's mess. A pianist plays daily from 3 pm, adding to the atmosphere. The staff work with military precision and are so attentive they even recall that I am drinking sparkling water. Raffles OWO is teeming with history and is a spectacular destination in itself. We walk along long, historic corridors where, in wartime, young messengers would ride bikes due to the distance between offices. Two heritage Pashley bikes in reception nod to this history. Generals, I am told, also rode the bikes—but with stabilisers, lest they become casualties of war.
A Delicious Welcome
Head here for a celebration, an experience, a date, or before you race off to see the five-star musical on which it is based. As the first line of the musical goes: Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to MI5! And what a delicious welcome this proves to be.
Amanda Cable was a guest of Raffles London at the OWO Hotel, but our reviews are 100% independent. Afternoon Tea is served daily in the Drawing Room from 12 pm to 5:30 pm. Classic Tea and Tours are held around four times a month, £155 per person, including a history of the hotel. Spies Tours begin at the Old War Office and take guests around Whitehall and the surrounding area, held Mondays and Tuesdays, £157 per person.
