Chenin blanc, often described as the Tilda Swinton of grapes, is celebrated for its remarkable versatility and ability to reflect terroir. Ruth Osborne, a wine consultant, proudly wears a cap embroidered with "chenin blanc," signaling her devotion to this grape. But what makes chenin so special?
A Shape-Shifting Grape
Chenin blanc adapts to soil and climate like no other grape, offering a chameleon-like quality that excites wine enthusiasts. Its late-ripening nature and high acidity allow it to produce a wide spectrum of wines, from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. With up to 35,000 hectares planted worldwide, it is a global grape, yet it remains strongly tied to specific regions.
South Africa and the Loire Valley
South Africa grows more than half the world's chenin crop, producing everything from mass-market to premium, terroir-driven wines. France, particularly the Loire Valley, accounts for about a third of global plantings, with over 90% in appellations like Vouvray and Savennières. Despite being only 80 miles apart, these regions produce strikingly different chenins due to their distinct soils—chalk in Vouvray and schist in Savennières.
Notable Wines
- Reyneke Organic Chenin Blanc (£12, Waitrose): Full, crisp, and peachy—a great everyday aperitif.
- Testalonga Baby Bandito Keep on Punching 2024 (£18.95, Buon Vino): Fresh, peachy, and crowd-pleasing.
- Villiera Barrel-Fermented Chenin Blanc (£20, Ocado): An aromatic, buttery beauty from Stellenbosch.
- Berceau des Fees Savennières 2023 (£25, Vinatis): Elegant and perfumed low-intervention wine.
- Le Clos de la Meslerie Vouvray Sec 2023 (£42, Dynamic Vines): Golden quince and mineral—a profound experience.
Chenin blanc's kinship with white burgundy is noted by wine merchant Kermit Lynch, who praises Vouvray's range from "gay to profound." Whether you're exploring South African or Loire chenins, this grape offers endless discovery.
