Rhodes, the fourth-largest Greek island, offers a surprisingly verdant landscape, with around 40% covered in pine forest, cypress, and Mediterranean scrub, making it a haven for hikers and nature lovers. Unlike the arid images of many Aegean islands, Rhodes presents a lush, green facade that belies its location in the Dodecanese. This article explores the island's quieter side, from its highest peaks to its hidden coves and traditional tavernas, offering a guide to experiencing Rhodes beyond the bustling cruise ship ports.
A Summit Experience: Mount Akramitis
Standing atop Mount Akramitis, the second-highest peak on Rhodes, at over 800 meters above the Aegean Sea, hikers are treated to a panoramic view that seems to blend sea and sky. Hiking guide George Thyris, who leads treks on the island, describes the feeling as having 'landed and reached heaven.' The ascent, which passes a 15th-century chapel tucked into the hillside, is rewarded with an almost surreal silence, punctuated only by the calls of birds and the scent of sage, pine, and wild herbs.
The descent leads to Fourni Beach, a golden-sand cove that remains delightfully uncrowded, even in peak season. Here, a quirky beach kantina serves inexpensive sandwiches, fries, and excellent iced coffee, providing a perfect reward after the climb. The electric blue waters offer a refreshing dip, and the lack of tour buses and cruise crowds makes it feel like a private paradise.
Wine Country and Local Flavors in Embonas
Continuing inland, the village of Embonas stands as the heart of Rhodes' wine country. At the traditional taverna Savvas, capable of hosting over 1,000 guests for weddings and celebrations, the atmosphere remains deeply local. Plates arrive in waves, featuring rich moussaka, stuffed vine leaves, and juicy hunks of slow-cooked lamb, all complemented by the region's crisp white wines and pale rosés. The family behind Savvas also owns vineyards that produce wines served across the island, and their Sauvignon Blanc comes highly recommended.
The island's population of around 125,000, compared with millions of annual visitors, fosters a sense of community where connections quickly emerge. Michalis Mavrikos, owner of the family-run restaurant Mavrikos in Lindos, notes that his wife is related to the family who own Savvas, illustrating the close-knit nature of Rhodian society. His restaurant, founded by his grandfather in 1912 after returning from Europe, brings a cosmopolitan influence to local cuisine, with dishes like sardines on toast with chilli marmalade and calamari paired with beetroot and saffron purée.
Lindos: Ancient Ruins and Culinary Delights
Lindos, Rhodes' most famous village, is undeniably beautiful despite its popularity. Whitewashed houses tumble down the hillside, and donkeys still navigate narrow alleyways lined with boutiques and cafés. Climbing the stone steps to the 4th-century BC Acropolis of Lindos rewards visitors with sweeping views over St Paul's Bay and the glittering Aegean. The ruins of the Temple of Athena Lindia sit dramatically on the clifftop, while the coastline curves away below.
Mavrikos, a family-run restaurant in Lindos, feels like a pilgrimage site for food lovers. Owner Michalis Mavrikos explains that his grandfather founded the restaurant in 1912 after working in Europe, bringing a cosmopolitan influence to local cuisine. Although there are no Michelin-starred restaurants on Rhodes, Mavrikos would surely be a contender, with dishes like sardines on toast with chilli marmalade and calamari paired with beetroot and saffron purée. Pink Floyd guitarist David Gilmour is said to be a regular, and local olive oil flows freely onto every plate.
Coastal Adventures and Old Town Charm
No Greek island trip is complete without time on the water, and Lindos Speed Boats offers the chance to explore the coastline properly. Afternoons can be spent weaving between sea caves, rocky headlands, and hidden blue lagoons where the water is so clear it seems unreal. Back in Rhodes Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the medieval streets come alive at night, with bars and restaurants remaining busy until dawn.
The In Camera Art Boutique Hotel, hidden within the labyrinth of medieval streets, offers a perfect balance between homely and sophisticated. Dinner unfolds on an open-air terrace beneath the villa, and the hotel's central location makes it easy to explore the Old Town's many attractions. For a final nightcap, the floating bar Swan by Kontiki provides a sleek modern contrast to the ancient surroundings, while the tucked-away restaurant Nireas offers a more intimate experience, with owner Theo Tsikis sharing stories of growing up in Rhodes Old Town, including a bomb blast during the Second World War that his parents witnessed.
Practical Information and Final Impressions
Getting to Rhodes is straightforward, with EasyJet and British Airways operating direct flights from London Gatwick, taking approximately four and a half hours. For those traveling from outside the capital, Yotel Gatwick offers cheap and convenient pre-flight accommodation. Rooms at the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel start from £180 a night, providing a comfortable base in the heart of the Old Town.
Before flying home, visitors should not miss the Palace of the Grand Master, rebuilt during the Italian occupation, and Café Mevlana, a 14th-century coffee house in the Old Town that claims to be the oldest in Europe. As locals speak of an invisible energy that defines Rhodes, a sense of continuity between past and present, history and daily life, it becomes clear that Rhodes is more than just a holiday destination. For those who venture beyond the beaches, it becomes something far harder to leave behind, with a rhythm that lingers long after departure.
