In the heart of southeast Bosnia, the forest of Perućica has grown without human interference for an estimated 20,000 years. This primeval wildwood, located in Sutjeska National Park, offers a rare glimpse into Europe's ancient past. Guided by Dejan Elez, a former law graduate turned ranger and mountain guide, visitors can explore this untouched sanctuary where bears, wolves, and chamois roam freely.
A Guided Journey into the Wild
Our adventure begins at a trailhead marked by a damaged wooden post, covered in claw scratches from a brown bear. Dejan, a born storyteller, captivates us with tales of the forest and its inhabitants. He recounts a famous 1943 battle nearby, where Yugoslav partisans broke through German lines under cover of a storm, and then delves into the forest's ancient history.
Perućica spans 1,434 hectares across a canyon in Republika Srpska. Along with Białowieża, it is one of Europe's last remnants of primeval wildwood. However, Dejan asserts that Perućica is better preserved, having never been inhabited or logged due to its rugged terrain. The forest is now under strict protection, requiring a guide for entry, and is recognized by UNESCO.
The Forest's Biodiversity
As we descend into the canyon, the dense greenery reveals a temperate rainforest with about 170 species of trees and shrubs and over 1,000 plants. Dejan reads the forest like a book, pointing out animal tracks: circular patches from chamois foraging, precise holes from roe deer, and scratch marks from foxes, wolves, and bears. He emphasizes that sightings are possible, especially in spring when bears emerge from hibernation to feast on wild garlic, known locally as "bear's garlic."
The forest's biodiversity protects it from epidemics like spruce bark beetle infestations. During the last ice age, Perućica acted as a refugium, preserving species that later expanded northward. Dejan connects the forest's name to Perun, the Slavic god of lightning, and indeed, walking through feels like wandering in a temple.
Encountering Wildlife and Threats
We pause at a grassy ledge overlooking Skakavac, a 75-meter waterfall, to eat sandwiches. Chamois droppings are everywhere, but we see no animals. Yet, the knowledge that wildcats, lynx, and wolves are nearby evokes reverence. Dejan is clear-eyed about threats: hunters bribe rangers, and development encroaches on the park's borders. He believes visitors should come as respectful guests, not owners.
On the return hike, Dejan identifies wolf excrement left deliberately to mark territory. After five hours, we emerge onto a gravel road, feeling changed by our immersion in Europe's wild past. Dejan notes that we have been exposed to microorganisms not found in England. Perućica clings to us as we drive back to Sarajevo, a two-and-a-half-hour journey north, following the path of trees after the ice age.
Practical Information
Guided tours of Perućica are available with Outdoor Bosnia or Wild Balkan Trails from £50 per person. Accommodation options near the park include Mountain View in Tjentište (from £44 per night) and Apartmani Šarović (from £47 per night).
