Zylia, a new Greek-Cypriot taverna in Covent Garden, opened just weeks ago but already feels like a long-established family spot. Located at 6 Bedford Street, London WC2, it offers classic dishes like taramasalata, souvlaki, spanakopita, kleftiko, and kaimaki ice-cream. The restaurant's pale, humble furnishings and homespun styling evoke a taverna that has been around for 62 years, complete with a cobbled back street and a yiayia doing dishes—though without the one-eared dog or olive tins.
Clever Design Meets Authentic Menu
The ambiance is achieved through clever interior design and a thoughtful, authentic menu, courtesy of chef Nick Molyviatis and hospitality veteran Barry Karacostas. Molyviatis is known for his work at Kiln and Singburi, while Karacostas has been involved with Arcade, a chain of London food halls. Zylia is part of the new Covent Garden Arcade but maintains its own front door, brick walls, website, and identity. Stepping from Zylia into Arcade feels like moving from a sun-battered Kefalonian alleyway to a Hitchcockian hotel lobby. This venture highlights the evolution of modern hospitality, where food halls like Arcade now hatch separate restaurant spaces with individual personalities.
Menu Highlights and Pricing
The menu is unshowily Greek-Cypriot, drawing equally from mezedakia, salads, grill, specials, and desserts. Standouts include Karacostas' mother's taramosalata, a whipped cod's roe with carob rusk, described as light as air with vivid citrus notes. Other mezedakia include melitzanosalata (coal-roasted aubergine dip with sweet peppers) and a yoghurt and feta spread with roast chilli. The wild prawn saganaki in spiced tomato, yoghurt, and tahini sauce is outstanding, requiring extra bread. A spanakopita stack could use more sharpness. Mains feature plump sheftalia (caul fat-wrapped Cypriot pork sausages) with raw onion, parsley, and sumac, and pricey lamb chops with oregano, salt, and lemon. Chicken souvlakia needed more grill time. The sole dessert is kaimaki ice-cream made with mastic from Chios and wild orchid root salep, served with tart sour cherry preserve—softly chewy, faintly bitter, and very good. Prices average about £45 a head, plus drinks and service.
Not Reimagining Cuisine, Just Serving It Well
Zylia is not trying to reimagine or deconstruct Greek-Cypriot cuisine; it serves it without smears or foams. The hospitality is warm, and the ambition clear. As sit-down restaurants face challenges, Molyviatis and Karacostas offer cheerful dining with occasional frills. The restaurant is open all week: Mon-Fri lunch noon-3pm, dinner 6-11pm; Sat noon-11pm; Sun noon-9pm. Reservations at 020-3949 4000.
