The Victory, a gastropub in East Dulwich, has reopened under restaurateur Jamie Younger, earning a five-star review from Time Out. The venue, located at 157 Lordship Lane, was formerly Franklins, a beloved local restaurant that closed after 26 years. Younger, who also runs the nearby Begging Bowl, took over the space within weeks and restored its original pub name, which remained carved in tile above the entrance.
Origin Story and Concept
According to Time Out's Leonie Cooper, The Victory's revival was driven by local demand. The gastropub fits a new wave of London pubs that prioritize both quality food and traditional pub culture, welcoming patrons who want a full meal or just drinks. Executive chef Seán Breen, formerly of Noble Rot, crafts a menu with French influences, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Food Highlights
The review highlights several standout dishes. Starters include melba toast topped with egg mayonnaise and Cantabrian anchovies, described as a "two-bite smash hit," and a smoked eel gilda. A salad of Honeymoon melon, runner beans, basil, ricotta, and almonds is praised as "more harmonious and sweat-proof." Grilled langoustines with tomato butter bring "Cajun energy" with robust flavor.
The main course features a whole roast poulet jaune (corn-fed chicken) served in two parts: breast in a creamy marsala sauce with tarragon, and leg with crispy skin. A martini pudding follows as dessert. Time Out recommends ordering chips to dip in the marsala sauce and insists the egg mayo soldiers are non-negotiable.
Atmosphere and Drinks
The back room is described as elegant but understated. The drink menu includes a martini selection, classic cocktails, wine, and beer. The vibe is that of a neighborhood gastropub that "wears its excellence lightly."
Time Out concludes: "Welcome back to the neighborhood, The Victory. This one's a keeper."
