How South Wales Became One of Britain's Most Exciting Culinary Destinations
Laverbread, rarebit, cawl, and perhaps Glamorgan sausage represent the traditional perception of Welsh cuisine. However, this narrow view overlooks the remarkable culinary evolution that has positioned South Wales as one of the United Kingdom's most vibrant and exciting food destinations. Over the past decade, the region has developed an exceptional restaurant scene that celebrates Wales's outstanding produce while earning prestigious accolades.
The Rise of Michelin-Starred Excellence
The emergence of Wales as a serious 'foodie' destination gained significant momentum in 2023 when double-starred Ynyshir was named the best restaurant in the UK. This was followed by Gorse earning Cardiff its first Michelin star just last year, marking a new chapter for the capital's dining scene. Among the flurry of newly starred establishments, two South Walian titans have long been at the forefront of fine dining.
The Walnut Tree near Abergavenny originally opened in the 1960s by Franco Taruschio, whose cookbook became a kitchen staple for many. Under chef Stephen Terry, it secured its first Michelin star in 2002, though this was lost in 2004 when Terry departed to establish The Hardwick. Following a period that included an appearance on Gordon Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares and temporary closure, The Walnut Tree reopened under head chef Shaun Hill and remarkably regained its star in 2010, which it maintains to this day.
The Whitebrook, situated deep in the picturesque Wye Valley, sources ingredients from its abundant natural surroundings. Head chef Chris Harrod frequently forages locally, creating dishes that celebrate Wye Valley produce with minimal affectation and profound respect. From deeply charred meadowsweet cured mackerel to pink gamey hogget with salsify and poached pear with pine and buttermilk, the restaurant demonstrates how exceptional ingredients can speak for themselves.
Perfect Pubs and Community Hubs
Between Monmouth and Abergavenny, nestled in the winding village of Bettws Newydd, The Black Bear Inn represents the Platonic ideal of a local gastropub. With a log burning stove in winter and doors opened to pollen-specked breezes in summer, the establishment offers a meticulously crafted weekly menu featuring hearty yet concise cooking. Standout items include treacly charred bread, oysters, and iridescent pickled sardines resting in pools of olive oil.
The Hare and Hounds in Aberthin and Wright's Food Emporium in Llanarthne expertly balance being beloved local establishments with destination restaurants. The Hare and Hounds, led by head chef Tom Watts-Jones who previously worked at St John, serves consistently remarkable dishes from oozing crispy pig cheek to plump parcels of gnocchi in buttery blankets. Its sister restaurant, The Heathcock in Cardiff, continues this excellence.
Wright's Food Emporium functions as both an impeccably stocked deli and a cafe open limited hours, serving as the heart of its local community while sourcing from Wales's best producers. The walls overflow with wines, perries, sauces, meats, cheeses, and countless other artisanal products, creating an education in Welsh production. Their legendary Cubano sandwich—featuring fat slabs of pork belly, sharp Hafod cheddar, local ham, and pickles on a freshly baked bap—has achieved pilgrimage status among food enthusiasts.
Innovative Establishments with Welsh DNA
The influence of London's iconic St John restaurant appears again at The Shed in Swansea, where former chef director Jonathan Woolway has created an establishment bearing St John's fingerprints with distinct Welsh DNA. Located on the docks, The Shed offers Welsh rarebit, cockles, grilled mackerel, and cold lamb that nod to Fergus Henderson's philosophy while feeling entirely rooted in place. Woolway describes his return to Swansea through the Welsh expression 'hiraeth,' a deep longing for home that permeates every dish.
Cardiff's Culinary Renaissance
Cardiff has often felt somewhat overshadowed by other Welsh destinations, but Gorse is changing this narrative. Headed by Tom Waters, this compact restaurant delivers gentle, precise, and distinctly Welsh cooking through tasting menus featuring Gower salt marsh lamb, bara brith with cheese and truffle, native seaweed broth, and playful toasted oat llymru.
For those seeking alternatives to traditional Welsh fare, Matsudai Ramen has developed a cult following for its steaming bowls of noodles in rich, salty chicken and pork soup. Founded by James Chant with no formal cooking background, the establishment proudly displays its ramen expertise and obsession with the perfect slurp.
South Wales's culinary landscape has evolved dramatically from its traditional associations, now offering diverse dining experiences that showcase the region's exceptional produce, talented chefs, and innovative approaches to Welsh gastronomy. From Michelin-starred temples of fine dining to community-focused pubs and specialist eateries, the region has firmly established itself as one of Britain's most compelling food destinations.
