Yotam Ottolenghi, the celebrated chef and food writer, has a message for summer cooks: keep it simple. In a recent essay, he reflects on the joys of easy entertaining, where the focus is on being present with guests rather than laboring in the kitchen. He shares two vibrant recipes: a vadouvan coronation chicken salad with lime yoghurt and a mango mess with yoghurt cream and lime leaf sugar.
Summer Cooking Philosophy
Ottolenghi recounts a peculiar experience where February 22 occurred twice due to crossing the international date line. This disorienting journey highlighted the importance of seasonal eating and attention. He emphasizes that summer cooking should be about restraint, allowing ripe produce to shine. A simple tomato salad or grilled peach can be more satisfying than an elaborate dish.
He draws inspiration from a visit to friend Samin Nosrat, who served a store-bought rotisserie chicken with homemade dressings. This meal taught Ottolenghi that the best gift is presence, not effort. He encourages cooks to accept help—like shop-bought birds or meringues—and spend more time at the table.
Vadouvan Coronation Chicken Salad with Lime Yoghurt
This modern take on coronation chicken uses a rotisserie bird for convenience. The vadouvan spice blend adds a sweet and savory note, while lime yoghurt brightens the dish. It's perfect for a crowd.
Prep: 20 min | Cook: 10 min | Assembly: 10 min | Serves: 4-6
- 150g Greek yoghurt
- 120g mayonnaise
- 1 lime (zest and juice)
- Salt and pepper
- 1 rotisserie chicken (1kg), shredded
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 50g mixed herbs (mint, coriander, basil, etc.)
- 50g pea shoots
- 3 spring onions, sliced
For the vadouvan chilli oil:
- 175ml rapeseed oil
- 50g cashews, chopped
- 100g dried apricots, chopped
- 50g vadouvan spice blend
- ¼ tsp sugar
- 15g Aleppo chilli flakes
- 1 tbsp cider vinegar
Heat oil, fry cashews and apricots for 8-10 minutes. Cool slightly, stir in spices, sugar, chilli, and vinegar. Whisk yoghurt, mayo, lime zest, half the juice, and salt. Mix chicken with 1½ tbsp oil, salt, pepper. Toss herbs, pea shoots, spring onions with remaining oil, lime juice, salt. Arrange chicken and herbs on platter, drizzle with yoghurt and oil. Serve extra on the side.
Mango Mess with Yoghurt Cream and Lime Leaf Sugar
A tropical twist on Eton mess, this dessert uses shop-bought meringues and Alphonso mango puree for depth. The lime leaf sugar is aromatic and can be made in bulk.
Prep: 30 min | Assembly: 10 min | Serves: 6
- 6 meringues (70g)
For the yoghurt cream:
- 600ml double cream
- 100g Greek yoghurt
- 1½ tsp vanilla bean paste
- 1 lime (zest and juice)
- 60g palm or brown sugar
For the lime leaf sugar:
- 10g lime leaves, stems removed
- 40g caster sugar
- 2 limes (zest)
- ⅛ tsp flaked sea salt
For the mangoes:
- 3 mangoes, sliced
- 150ml Alphonso mango puree
- 15g palm or brown sugar
- 2 limes, segmented and chopped
Whisk cream, yoghurt, vanilla, lime zest and juice, and sugar to soft peaks. Blitz lime leaves, sugar, zest, and salt until green. Combine mangoes, puree, sugar, and lime pieces. Layer cream, meringues, mango mixture, and lime sugar on a platter. Serve with extra mango and sugar.
Ottolenghi's recipes celebrate simplicity and attention, proving that the best summer meals are those shared with loved ones.
