Ornella Brings Milanese Cuisine to London Fields
Ornella, the latest venture from the team behind Highbury’s Lupa, has opened on Wilton Way in London Fields, offering a chic take on Milanese cuisine. The restaurant’s butterscotch exterior and quaint village vibe create a picturesque scene, with diners sipping orange wine in the afternoon sun. Inside, half-panelled wood walls, a 1960s trattoria energy, and whimsical floral paintings set an aesthetically pleasing atmosphere.
Minimalist Dishes Shine, But Others Falter
The tajarin al brodo di cipolla exemplifies minimalism, with a dark roscoff onion broth surrounding tagliolini and two squares of molten cheese on toast for mopping. Branzino in a bag impresses with flaky sea bass, buttery beurre blanc, and a fresh preboggion sauce. However, the chicken Milanese, priced at £26, lacks pizzazz, served only with mayo and no salad, unlike the fennel-and-apple version at Tiella nearby.
Inconsistencies in Execution
Roasted vegetables need salt, and the seabream tartare suffers from flavourless fish battling a zingy sauce and pear chunks. The zuppa inglese trifle redeems the meal with creamy custard and chocolate layers. Overall, Ornella strives for casual simplicity but requires more flair to stand out among Hackney’s many Italian spots like Tiella, Auguste, Dalla, and Lupa.
Verdict and Practical Details
The vibe is chic yet cosy on Wilton Way. The food focuses on Milanese classics, including pasta primis and mains like beef stew and veal Milanese. Cocktails feature a potent fig leaf martini and tangy almond and grape sour. Time Out recommends the pasta in brodo, noting it’s among the best. Address: 51 Wilton Way, London Fields, London E8 1BG.
