Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant often hailed as one of the world's best, is set to reopen next week under new leadership for the first time since co-founder and star chef René Redzepi stepped down following accusations of physical and psychological abuse. The new executive head chef, Pablo Soto, who has been with the restaurant for nearly a decade, says that while it remains "the same Noma," significant changes have been made, including a heightened focus on staff wellbeing and a new evolving monthly menu to replace the previous seasonal offerings.
Redzepi's Apology and Departure
Redzepi, who has apologised to "those who have suffered under my leadership," is no longer involved in the day-to-day running of the restaurant, but Soto confirmed that Redzepi would still have a creative influence. The scandal erupted in March when a New York Times investigation detailed allegations of abusive working conditions, including punching, screaming, and public shaming, dating back to between 2009 and 2017. One former employee told the NYT that going to work "felt like going to war." Redzepi responded: "Although I don't recognise all details in these stories, I can see enough of my past behaviour reflected in them to understand that my actions were harmful to people who worked with me. To those who have suffered under my leadership, my bad judgment or my anger, I am deeply sorry and I have worked to change." Days later, he announced he would "step away" from the restaurant and resigned from his nonprofit, MAD.
A New Era at Noma
When Noma reopens on Wednesday, it will face one of its biggest tests yet without Redzepi at the helm. Soto, taking a break from intense final preparations, said: "It's the same Noma. We are simply back home – that is what is different." The restaurant had originally planned to convert its Copenhagen site, which closed in 2024, into a food laboratory, but after the international fallout, the decision was made to reopen it. "After Los Angeles, the best thing, in my opinion, was to come back to something stable. Our beautiful restaurant," Soto told the Guardian. "This was a good decision for the team because of course what happened created instability – it was a difficult thing."
Confidence in the Team
Soto admitted there were moments in recent months when he feared for Noma's future, but he is now adamant that it could regain its best-in-the-world status. "The team that has done it for so many years is still here. And that's the number one marker of confidence right now," he said. Daily operations are now handled by Soto, CEO Annika de Las Heras, and head of research and development Mette Brink Søberg, with Redzepi turning his attention to creative projects. "That doesn't mean he is banished from his company. We actually want his input," Soto said, insisting he was "not stepping into René's former role," adding: "This is still his restaurant. He is now simply moving to the side to continue on other creative ventures."
New Menu and Staff Wellbeing
When the restaurant reopens, the 4,500 DKK (about £515) per head menu, plus an additional 2,000 DKK (£229) for wine pairing, will focus on what is available during that specific time of year, replacing the previous model that revolved around three seasons: seafood in winter, vegetables in spring and summer, and forest and game in autumn. "It's a menu that is dynamic, that can change day to day in many ways," Soto said. Initially, the restaurant will work with ingredients such as berries, flowers, vegetables, and sweet seafood, moving on by October to wild mushrooms, game, stone fruits, and red shellfish. Soto also plans to prioritise ensuring that the staff of about 100 are able to live full lives outside work, including having children, pets, and hobbies. "This is nothing new but is definitely something that is a priority, that people can continue their lives and continue to be at work," he said.
