Meat Market Barbecue, located near Caledonian Road in London, serves Texas-style barbecue that has earned praise for its oak-smoked beef, particularly the beef clod, according to a review by Rufus MacRae.
Oak-Fired Tradition Meets London Craft
The meat tastes as though flame has kissed it, with every mouthful woody, smoky, and earthy, and the bark bearing fire's benediction. The wood is oak, sourced from the Midlands and sacrificed to the behemoth iron smoker in the courtyard. This is a meal that honours the animal and the wood.
Joe Carvell, founder and head chef, learned this art through honest graft: starting with a Weber in the back of a Stoke Newington burger joint, then spending eight years at the revered Smokestak. He is an acolyte of central Texas barbecue's simplicity, mostly beef, and it should rarely meet anything but salt, pepper, and smoke.
Signature Cuts and Rich Flavours
The smoker is Joe's bailiwick, and the beef clod is his crowning jewel. It is shoulder, the precursor cut to its popular cousin, brisket. Joe keeps its traditional name to start conversations and pay tribute to its history. It has a caramelised delicacy, with a firm bark that breaks away to ineffably tender ribbons of meat.
The wagyu short rib is outrageously rich, yet still not cloying, and the ox cheek is dark, gelatinous and leaves little room to look up from the tray. The curry mutton sausage had a hidden Spanish accent, with a hum of paprika that broke up the selection with a burst of red.
Sides and Sauces That Complement
The accompanying sauces surgically cut through the richness of the platter. The sprouts are quite possibly a better vehicle for buffalo sauce than any chicken I've had. The slaw and pickles punctuate each bite, proof that Meat Market's craft isn't solely in mastering the meat.
As ritual (and my gluttony) dictates, I piled a small mound of everything onto the white toast; it teetered precariously on the corner. The final “Everything” bite had harmony: sharp sauces married almost mahogany meat; it verged on offensively perfect.
Visit and Experience
Meat Market, near Caledonian Road, is best experienced firsthand; go soon and lean into the indulgence. The restaurant is located at Acorn Production Centre, 105 Blundell Street, N7 9BN, with more information available at meatmarketbarbecue.co.uk.
