Michelin Two-Star Chef in Wales Denounces 'Prehistoric' Hygiene Inspection Regime
Gareth Ward, the acclaimed chef behind Ynyshir, a Michelin two-star restaurant with rooms near Machynlleth in Wales, has launched a scathing critique of the hygiene inspection system, labeling it as "prehistoric." This outburst follows the disclosure of an inspection report that awarded his establishment a one-star hygiene rating, citing concerns over dead flies and potential cross-contamination risks.
Chef Vows to Fight Back Against Inspection Findings
In an emotional Instagram post, Ward expressed his frustration, stating that inspectors admitted to not understanding his restaurant's unique approach. "They're prehistoric, these guys," he declared. "They've actually admitted to me, to my face, they don't understand my restaurant. They've judged me before they've understood. Instead of trying to understand it, they've just slapped a one [star] on it." Ward emphasized his determination to protect his reputation, saying, "I am going to fight. I am going to protect what's mine. I'm not going to roll over and die."
Inspection Report Details Hygiene Concerns
The report, obtained through a freedom of information request to Ceredigion County Council, highlighted several issues. Inspectors noted an "accumulation of dead flies" on a flypaper strip in a prep room and flies elsewhere, warning that "flies pose a significant food safety risk." Additionally, a knife used for shaving beef was described as "dirty," and concerns were raised about potential cross-contamination between ready-to-eat raw minced beef and other raw meats. The report advised reorganizing fridge storage to ensure proper separation.
Further criticisms included the service of raw lobster, with inspectors stating that "significant risks associated with the service of raw lobsters specifically microbiological hazards have not been fully identified and/or controlled." They recommended ceasing this practice immediately or facing enforcement action. Handwashing accessibility was also flagged, as raw and ready-to-eat foods were handled in areas without nearby basins.
Restaurant's Response and Defense
Ynyshir, known for its 30-course tasting experience built on "world-class ingredients, precision, and advanced culinary techniques," issued a statement defending its practices. The restaurant claimed it has faced "persistent challenges" with the council's environmental health department, primarily over documentation and a lack of understanding of its specialized procedures. It asserted that the inspection identified only "a small number of minor issues typical of a busy professional kitchen situated in the countryside of rural Wales," all of which were "rectified immediately and in full."
The statement also contested the report's accuracy, explaining that the "dirty" knife had just been sharpened and was seen mid-cleaning. Ynyshir added that all action points have been completed and extensive documentation submitted to address the concerns.
Council Stands Firm on Inspection Standards
In response, Ceredigion County Council defended its inspection process, stating, "Ceredigion county council stands by the professional judgment and findings of our staff in applying UK food hygiene standards. Inspections are carried out in line with national standards set by the Food Standards Agency." This stance underscores the ongoing tension between innovative culinary establishments and regulatory frameworks.
Ward, in his social media posts, lamented not appealing the rating earlier and criticized media coverage as lazy. He emphasized his passion for hospitality, saying, "We absolutely love hospitality and creating something very special for the world to come and see and enjoy. We want people to come here and let their hair down and forget about the bullshit in the world for 24 hours and just have a fucking good time." In a follow-up post, he thanked supporters, describing the past four weeks as "fucking shit."
This controversy highlights the clash between high-end gastronomy and strict hygiene regulations, raising questions about how inspectors assess unconventional culinary techniques. Ynyshir's case continues to draw attention as Ward fights to uphold his restaurant's reputation on the international stage.
