The Melplash Show's traditional cider competition took place under the shadow of a disastrous apple harvest, with growers reporting the crop is down by around 80% due to summer drought and prolonged high temperatures.
Cider judging gets underway early
By 10am, the two judges – cider-maker Ross Mangles of North Down Orchard and cider writer James Crowden – had already sampled all 36 entries in the traditional non-fizzy cider classes. The judging began at 8.30am, fortified with a block of blue-veined cheddar cheese, a packet of cream crackers and a glass of water.
When the results were announced, the winning bottles were at least a quarter empty, and both judges were feeling upbeat. The competition was divided into three classes – dry, medium and sweet – with a trophy for the best in show.
What the judges look for
Ross Mangles explained that they look for clearness, balance and roundness of flavour. He offered a taste of the overall champion, a sweet cider that was beguilingly smooth. However, the winner of the medium category, made just outside Bridport by a non-commercial producer, had more tannin. It was a classic, traditional farmhouse style, fermented from a mix of old apple varieties including Dabinett, Breakwell's seedling, sweet Alford and crimson king.
Drought devastates apple crop
Next year's entries may not be so numerous, as the summer drought and prolonged high temperatures have reduced the apple crop by around 80%. "We were expecting a bad year as last year was very good – apple yields alternate between good and poor years – but this has been much worse than we thought," said Ross Mangles. He still has juice supplies left from last year's pressings, but other producers are struggling.
Small-scale cider-making has undergone a revival in Dorset in recent times, with villagers forming clubs dedicated to the art of the apple. New orchards have been planted and ancient varieties rediscovered. Drinkers are hoping for a bumper crop next year to fill the depleted barrels.
