Max Coen's Citrus-Infused Culinary Creations
Citrus season introduces a dynamic new layer of flavor, offering vibrancy, nuance, and brightness that goes far beyond a simple lemon squeeze. For chef Max Coen, citrus represents more than just acidity; it serves as a complex alternative to sugar and vinegar, providing bitterness, floral notes, sweetness, and sharpness in balanced harmony. With over a hundred varieties of lemons, clementines, and limes available, Coen simplifies them into two categories: sour citrus and sweet citrus. Understanding this distinction allows cooks to explore each type's unique complexity and determine the best culinary applications.
Pork Chop with Citrus Butter
A well-seasoned pork chop requires minimal embellishment, but a punchy citrus butter adds lift and freshness while cutting through the meat's richness. For this butter, Coen uses sour lemons for acidity and balances it with sweet clementine juice to create a rounded flavor profile.
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 40 minutes
Serves: 2
For the Citrus Butter:
- 150g room-temperature butter
- 20g parsley leaves, finely chopped
- 20g chives, finely chopped
- 1 tsp flaky sea salt
- 40ml lemon juice or other sour citrus juice
- 30ml clementine juice or other sweet citrus juice
For the Pork:
- Salt and pepper
- 1 large pork chop or 2 small ones, best quality available
- Neutral oil for searing
Begin by making the citrus butter. Combine all ingredients in a bowl, whisk until smooth, then taste and adjust seasoning. The butter should have gentle sweetness and salinity with a sharp, citrus finish. Cover and chill, or keep at room temperature if cooking immediately.
For the pork, preheat the oven to 70C (50C fan)/140F/gas low. Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat until very hot. Lightly season the chop on both sides. Add a little oil to the hot pan, then sear the chop for one minute per side.
Transfer the pork to a rack set over a tray and place in the oven for 10 minutes. Do not wash the pan; retain the fat and caramelized bits. After 10 minutes, return the pork to the hot pan for a quick second sear on both sides, then return to the rack and oven for another 10 minutes, aiming for a core temperature of 60C.
Once the chop reaches temperature, give it a final sear in the same pan on the stovetop to crisp the crust and raise the core to 63C. Thinly slice the chop, arrange on two plates, and serve with the citrus butter melting over the top.
Citrus Curd with Amaretti and Pear
This light, balanced dessert centers on sharp citrus curd, amaretti biscuits, and fresh pear, offering a playful mix of textures and acidity that keeps sweetness in check.
Preparation Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 40 minutes
Chilling Time: 30 minutes+
Serves: 4-6
For the Amaretti:
- 70g egg whites
- 200g caster sugar
- 200g ground almonds
For the Citrus Curd:
- 100ml fresh lemon juice, plus about 35ml extra to taste
- 40g caster sugar
- 100g whole eggs
- 160g unsalted butter
- Up to 60ml fresh clementine juice or other sweet citrus juice (optional and to taste)
For the Cardamom Chantilly:
- 1 tbsp icing sugar
- ½ tsp ground cardamom
- 100ml double cream
- A pinch of salt, ideally pink
To Finish:
- 2 fresh pears, cored and thinly sliced at the last minute
Start by making the curd. Place lemon juice, sugar, and eggs in a bowl set over, but not touching, a pan of simmering water. Whisk until the mixture reaches 80C. Scrape down the bowl sides to ensure thorough mixing, then add butter and whisk vigorously for 20 seconds until smooth and emulsified. Transfer to a bowl, taste, and adjust with extra lemon juice as needed. Balance acidity with sweet clementine juice if desired. Divide the curd among four small serving glasses, then refrigerate to chill and set for 30 minutes.
For the biscuits, whip egg whites until fluffy, then gradually whisk in 50g caster sugar until dissolved and soft peaks form. In a separate bowl, combine ground almonds with the remaining 150g caster sugar, then gently fold in the whipped egg white mixture to form a sticky dough.
Lightly dampen hands with water, portion dough into 15g balls (yielding about 20), and arrange on a greased and lined oven tray, spacing them apart for expansion during baking.
Preheat oven to 185C (165C fan)/360F/gas 4½. Bake biscuits for 12-15 minutes until edges are crisp but centers remain chewy. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
Meanwhile, mix icing sugar and cardamom in a small bowl. Whisk cream, then gradually beat in the icing sugar mixture until soft peaks form, being careful not to overwhip to maintain smoothness and lightness. Season lightly with salt.
To assemble, top each glass of set curd with a spoonful of cardamom chantilly, then add two crumbled amaretti biscuits and six thin slices of fresh pear. Serve immediately or chill until ready.
Max Coen, chef and co-owner of Dorian in London W11, showcases how citrus can transform both savory and sweet dishes, offering recipes that highlight seasonal ingredients with innovative techniques.
